You know when you find yourself on the verge of answering a conundrum, but your brain can't make the final leap in the dark? That's where I'm at right now with a kitchen outlet.
A year ago we rewired the kitchen outlets to 2 new breakers. The refrigerator and microwave went to their own breaker, and on the second breaker, I installed a GFI to the left of the sink for a new line around the kitchen that allowed us to add two new outlets. Recently, the outlet at the end of the line decided to stop working with our family toaster, and for that matter anything else. The other three outlets up the line were working. Since my voltage sensor detected current I switched out the outlet for a new one. After turning the breaker back on, I checked the GFI outlet and noticed it had now tripped, so after resetting it the toaster outlet worked...momentarily. I switched the breaker off and on again, and now it's working.
So, here's where I'm stumped. (Diagram for reference. Breaker and GFI are a 20A, other down the line outlets are 15A.)
- The GFI outlet has an under-cabinet radio and coffee machine plugged in (which is turned off).
- "Sink Right" currently has an operating crock pot plugged in.
- "Counter" is clear
- "Stove Right" now has the toaster plugged in, and is working fine after a few tests.
Something tells me the GFI is the problem since I didn't find an open neutral in the connection to the "Counter" outlet. However, the GFI's self-test light is green and is not tripping after I initially changed the outlets.
I'm going to continue to monitor this outlet, but I'm at a loss for what the problem could be. If the information I've given is too confusing, please let me know. If more info is needed, I'll add what I can. Any insight is appreciated.
Submitted December 03, 2017 at 03:01AM by huanthewolfhound http://ift.tt/2Aq6O1K electricians
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