So I’ve done my research and am just about ready to jump into this project…however I want to ping you guys for some last minute advice/answers to a few questions before I begin. I’ve bolded my questions since this post ended up way longer than necessary.
My goal here is a 2 tap Kegerator. I chose Kegerator over Keezer because I live in a small apartment and this will be in my living room so keeping this thing as small as possible is a high priority.
--Parts List-- Items I’ve already obtained-- (5lb Co2 tank, Taprite dual body regulator, 1 5gal corny keg, 1 Perlick 630SS with SS gooseneck shank, 12ft Ultra Barrier Silver beer line, PC fan wired to a DC adapter, Eva dry-E500 dehumidifier, drip tray, STC-1000) Items that I need to buy-- (Mini Fridge, Tower-this is the one I plan on buying http://ift.tt/2bN0GpQ, 1 5gal corny keg, 1 Perlick 630SS with SS gooseneck shank, 12ft of Ultra Barrier Silver beer line, Gas hose and Quick Disconnects for both gas and liquid…debating if I should get John Guest fittings, white marker board to line the inside fridge door, clear silicone sealant, waterproof aluminum tape, 1” copper pipe to cool tower, screws/washers/nuts to mount tower, plastic cutting board to mount tower securely.)
--Tools needed-- Hole saw (bit size?), dremel (certain cutting bit needed?), circular saw, drill.
Mini Fridge- I’ve narrowed my search down to these 2 fridges… Danby DAR044A4BDD Compact All Refrigerator, 4.4 Cubic Feet, Black- $170 on Amazon, http://ift.tt/2c5chPm Danby DAR044A6BSLDB 4.4cu All Refrigerator, Stainless Steel- $150 at Costco. I need to choose between these 2…as far as I can tell they are pretty much identical and the only difference is color and the Costco one is $20 cheaper?
Process- Once the fridge is obtained I will use a dremel to remove the plastic interior lining of the door to free up space and will line it with the whiteboard/seal it with the aluminum tape. I do not yet know if I will also dremel off the plastic side shelf supports on the inside of the fridge for more room? Then I will use the hole saw to punch the hole in the top of the fridge in the rear center to avoid any wires. I’ve seen people go with anywhere from a 1-1/8” to 2-1/8” size hole…I’m shooting for 2”. Any idea if a specific hole size is more desirable?
After that I will secure the tower to the fridge with a plastic cutting board on the inside to stabilize it. I will most likely install a 1” copper pipe in the tower leading into the fridge to help with cooling. From there I will install the faucets, shanks, beer/gas lines and should be pretty much good to go. I also will be plugging the fridge into an external temp controller to monitor the temperature.
Another thing I’m questioning is if I should get MFL fitted quick disconnects alongside John Guest fittings…Is this a worthwhile upgrade from the standard barb/clamp fittings?
Anything I’m missing? Tips before I begin? Concerns? Thanks for reading this and for any advice!
Submitted August 30, 2016 at 02:39AM by brewpig http://ift.tt/2bMZZwN Homebrewing
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