Hi everyone, I have a broken refrigerator and rather than replacing my defrost control board again ($50), I'd figure I'd just try to replace these 2 parts first to see if that'd fix the problem.
The 2 blown things have R1 and R23 next to them so I was wondering if these are just resistors and if so, what kind are they?
Here is an image of them: http://ift.tt/2vOMF26
My LCD monitor (with a 2.1A 19volt transformer) and mini fridge (1.7cu) is connected to the same outlet via various extension cord. Whenever the fridge's motor clicks (on or off I am not sure, I think it is both) the monitor would black out for a few seconds.
Other electronic appliances drawing from the same outlet (projector, 3D printers, Ice maker, computer, play-station,portable AC unit <-also blacks out the monitor on switch, LED main light etc.) isn't fazed by the mini fridge at all, just the monitor. So my original suspicion is that the monitor transformer doesn't have enough capacitor to stabilize the voltage, causing the monitor to reset whenever the fridge turns on and off(?). But it could be a safety feature on a branch extension cord or the transformer itself, I have no idea. I am thinking of making a board with a few 470uF electrolytic capacitor in parallel to the 19volt lines and place it between the transformer and the monitor to serve as a energy reservoir to stop this periodic black outs.
Is that a reasonable solution? Or it may be something else? I am not an electronic beginner but I am not an expert either. I fully recognize this is the phase where you can do stupid and dangerous things. I would very much like to hear your opinions.
ok, so i know about surge protectors, line conditioners and ups.
but here's the conundrum.
when my 14cuft fridge cycles on, all the electrics on my 50amp apartment service seem to dip for a moment. i double checked and every outlet is polarized correctly and earth ground is confirmed.
to protect my most sensitive electronics, i plug them all into an expensive 600w capacity line conditioner - which has served me well for over a decade now.
so what's changed? i'd like to use ethernet power-line adapters which are required to be plugged right into the wall, as surge protectors will interfere with their wired data transmission. the wifi in my building is saturated with too many neighbors, so that's not an option, nor is running a data only wire.
my worry is that the power-line adapters will now be exposed to the power dips in my service my refrigerator make every time it cycles, which could be 50 times each day. so it occurs to me if i insulate the refrigerator wiring from the rest of my service somehow, i could use the power-line adapter without fear, and the rest of my electronic devices would be less exposed to stress whenever they are plugged into a bare wall outlet.
black outs, brown outs, and lightning strikes are very rare where i live in nyc - maybe once every 20 years, and most devices these days are on ac:dc converters, so even when the power goes nuts, only the bricks get killed.
since i'm trying to protect my apt from the dips the fridge creates - putting the refrigerator on a surge protector would be pointless (it has few electronics, just relay, thermostat and heater), so i was thinking of putting the refrigerator on it's own line conditioner or even a inline-ups (no clamp time) that way the start up demand from the compressor would stress the line conditioner capacitors or the ups's battery - not my apt wide power.
so what say the collective intelligence of /AskE ?
line conditioners and in-line ups that can handle a 4 amp fridge are pretty expensive, so i was hoping for a clever - cheaper solution. i mean i get how there are plenty of gimmicks to protect an appliance from bad electricity, but what devices exist that protect your home wide electrical service from one naughty start coil dip noise appliance!
btw, if you wonder how i know my fridge start cycle is the trouble maker; my 600w line conditioner clamps several times each day when the compressor kicks on (i can hear it's relay click and it occasionally lets out an alarm tone). several of my PWM dimmed LED lights will dim for a second at that same moment.
So I'm doing a little project where when I open the pantry door, an led strip light comes on. Well I decided to use a refrigerator switch because it's perfect for what I need and ul rated line voltage and only a few bucks to boot.
Well the pantry has 2 doors and i have installed 2 switches and want to make sure i get the wiring correct . I want the light to come on if either door is open or both doors are open.
Will the included attachment work, keep everything at 120v and make sense?
Thanks all.
Edit, sorry, forgot to attach image :
Edit 2: spelling errors
Hi. I'm not sure this is the right place to ask this questions, so mods please remove this (though the sidebar says how-tos are okay).
I have a side-by-side GE fridge which, like all side-by-side GE fridges, has had a problem with the water line freezing. I've done everything I could to prevent having to put in a heating element, but it finally came time to.
Putting in the heating element (this guy) went great, until I got to splicing the wires from the heating element to the wires in the fridge. I shut off my breaker, connected one wire from the heating element to the fridge and it went fine. The second though...
This is the splice connector the heating element comes with. In the second connection, the metal bar came in contact with the heating element's wire but missed the native refrigerator wire. The heating element doesn't get hot. So now I've got the problem of trying to get this thing off and resplicing it.
I'm concerned with the safety of doing that.
How the hell do you get these things off?
What safety things should I be concerned with?
Thank you!
Hi
I can't find any english-language documents on the fridge, it's made exclusively for an overseas market.
I'm 100% sure the green and yellow wire is ground.
There is another wire that is a "merger/fusion" (probably not the correct term) of the white, blue, and black wires. The white wire is connected to a resistor.
I'm 99% sure that the contact circled in red had one of the wires connected to it, because the dust pattern on the surface matches the pattern of holes on the contact.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
would anybody have an idea on how to design a device that would read the mains frequency from an outlet and if the frequency was low (ie. the grid is under stress) it would turn off the appliance (eg. a refrigerator ) for a set period of time such as 5 minutes? a circuit using a simple relay and a mirocontroller maybe?
While I have been reassured by my chemistry teacher that storing a lead solution in a syringe inside my fridge should be safe, I am not so sure of this myself. Would double bagging it inside plastic bags be safe, or should I keep it somewhere else?
http://ift.tt/1ZIytPv, this is going to be used to charge a capacitor bank and blow shit up. Before I plug it in to mains, I wanna know if the circuit is safe? The cap is rated 200v 100uF , all the parts are about 8 years old(removed from a refrigerator), diode are F(something letter I can't read)107.
Does anyone have suggestions for a small, cheap, and low energy consumption refrigerator just big enough for a few jars of paste or other temperature sensitive and toxic substance?
Hi, I am in sort of a pickle. I'm trying to catch my roommate stealing my food from the refrigerator. I bought a little hook spy cam off amazon for $20. Gutted it and hid it in ranch bottle. My only problem is that the 3.7v 220mah battery dies after about an hour or two. I was wondering if I could connect an extra 3.7v Note 2 battery (3100mah) to keep in on longer. Is there any way to make this happen? Thanks in advanced.
This is the refrigerator's electrical scheme. I'm very confused by it. What's L1? What's L2?
This is the controller's. It's clear enough lol. "The Load" is engrish for compressor/resistor. NTC is the temperature probe.
As I understand, the brown(MR) wire supplies power to the thermostat, which switches the compressor on via the black(PR) wire, right? And then the blue(AZ) wire brings it all back to close the circuit. Could I then connect the brown(MR) wire to 1, 3 and to where it goes to power the lamp and defroster, and then the blue wire returning from the compressor to 4 and then back to the wall? Or did I get this all wrong?
Someone suggested me I could just turn the stock thermostat all the way up, and rig the controller to the fridge's power cord. I guess that would probably work, but I've seen at least one person have issues with this when the thermostat being all the way up didn't equal to the compressor being on all the time. Plus I'd lose control over the lamp, and the defrosting function, which I'd like to keep.
e: This is what I'm thinking. am I missing something?
Wire from a GE Refrigerator. What kind of connector is it and where can I buy a replacement?
Hey guys! Just a quick question about something different. Basically I have this very small refrigerator (big enough to hold 4 beer bottles), that originally came with a Output DC 12V, 4.16A power supply. To cool the beverages, it uses 2 fans and a small radiator. It recently went bad and the only thing close that I could find that works is an old laptop charger that works at 16V, 4.16A. It works fine, but the power supply runs pretty hot (about 130 F after a half hour). Is this normal, am I at any risks, and should I be concerned? Thank you!
This is a Main Control Board from a refrigerator where the technician's helper told him the power was off when it really wasn't.
One of the traces is burnt out where an arc occurred.
Can I jump this trace by soldering on a thick wire? I wouldn't think I'd have to worry too much about signal latency with this short of a jump.
The bad spot is on Pin 1 of JP12 in the 2nd link photo. Thanks!
I have a fairly recent refrigerator, rated 230v, 0.8A, 135w. Is this correct? I assumed that fridges' compressor takes more than this. If so, how big a voltage regulator do I need for it to run smoothly?
I have it plugged in to a 2000w AVR and the amp needle barely moves, even when the compressor is running. Would a 1000w/1500w do so I can use the 2000w somewhere else?
Also, I have a 110v Elliptical, plugged into a 1500w AVR, and the needle is always on red. Does the Elliptical use more than the fridge?
I had previously posted in /r/electricians, but I got several conflicting answers. I am looking for a more detailed explanation of what might have happened in my house and I'm hoping you guys would be able to provide a technical explanation.
Last week my landlord called an electrician to fix something, and in doing so, the electrician toggled the power to my entire apartment and the one next week (both are on the same circuit/breaker box). He toggled the master switch for both apartments about ten times in one minute (off and on).
A few of my electronics stopped working after he did this. Would anything harmful or unusual happen to the electricity if the switch is toggled off and on quickly like this? Someone mentioned voltage spikes to me, but if this is the case, can someone explain?
Thanks!
Some additional info: my apartment and the one next door are all on one circuit. There are two refrigerators, two washing machines, two air conditioners, and one heater connected to the circuit, as well as the usual mains and lighting. We use 220V.
Working on a hobby progect, and need a small, normally closed switch, which uses a lever, not a button.
Something like a refrigerator switch, but much smaller.
Does such a thing exist?
Inexpensive, portable, less power sensor device devised by MIT Scientists can detect whether the meat in grocery or refrigerator is safe to eat. Similar sensor developed earlier to detect the fruit ripening. This new device can be incorporated in smartphones to read the out from sensors.
