Desktop build sounds like a small refrigerator. I’ve taken to using earplugs when working in silence. Should I switch out components, or is that just the way it is? buildapc

Description

My build is really noisy (can hear from 10ft away easily) even if it’s just sitting on the login screen or BIOS. The sound is a constant hum, not unlike a refrigerator. I thought it would at least be quiet when not in use, but it’s loud no matter what — and if my laptop can be silent at times, surely my much-more-expensive desktop can too, right?

Relevant parts

• case: In Win 303
  
• CPU: i7-6700k, not overclocked
• CPU cooler: Corsair H80i v2, with ML120 fan pushing
• GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid (has 120 mm cooler, ML120 fan pushing)

Troubleshooting steps

1. Replaced several fans, including both cooler fans and all fans at the bottom of the case (where I initially thought noise was coming from) with ML120's. No noise difference.

2. Disconnected GPU from power and motherboard, turned on PC. No meaningful noise difference.

3. Tried both push-pull and just push for both coolers. No difference.

Other info

It sounds like the noise is coming from the CPU area. I’m almost positive that it’s the pump on the H80i.

Temps are fine, as far as I can tell. Switching the cooler pump between Quiet and Performance makes no difference in noise levels.

I RMA'd the cooler because of this (it also recently stopped showing CPU fan speeds) and have the new one near me, unopened. Here are the explanations and options I’m seeing:

1. It’s a defective cooler, and the new one will be quieter, so I should install that.

2. That model of CPU cooler is just noisy as hell by design and I should get a different one.

3. It’s normal for desktops to be that noisy, and I should just get over it.

4. ...?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Edit: since everyone is saying the cooler is overkill, I’m leaning towards selling it (Corsair wouldn’t give a refund 11 months later, I assume) and buying another cooler. Will happily take suggestions; I’m willing to pay a little extra to make sure it’s really silent. I do already have the ML120 fans that I could put on a cooler.

Submitted December 09, 2017 at 12:57AM by pcbuilder95 http://ift.tt/2AZgkM5 buildapc

Desktop build sounds like a small refrigerator. I’ve taken to using earplugs when working in silence. Should I switch out components, or is that just the way it is? buildapc

Description

My build is really noisy (can hear from 10ft away easily) even if it’s just sitting on the login screen or BIOS. The sound is a constant hum, not unlike a refrigerator. I thought it would at least be quiet when not in use, but it’s loud no matter what — and if my laptop can be silent at times, surely my much-more-expensive desktop can too, right?

Relevant parts

• case: In Win 303
  
• CPU: i7-6700k, not overclocked
• CPU cooler: Corsair H80i v2, with ML120 fan pushing
• GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid (has 120 mm cooler, ML120 fan pushing)

Troubleshooting steps

1. Replaced several fans, including both cooler fans and all fans at the bottom of the case (where I initially thought noise was coming from) with ML120's. No noise difference.

2. Disconnected GPU from power and motherboard, turned on PC. No meaningful noise difference.

3. Tried both push-pull and just push for both coolers. No difference.

Other info

It sounds like the noise is coming from the CPU area. I’m almost positive that it’s the pump on the H80i.

Temps are fine, as far as I can tell. Switching the cooler pump between Quiet and Performance makes no difference in noise levels.

I RMA'd the cooler because of this (it also recently stopped showing CPU fan speeds) and have the new one near me, unopened. Here are the explanations and options I’m seeing:

1. It’s a defective cooler, and the new one will be quieter, so I should install that.

2. That model of CPU cooler is just noisy as hell by design and I should get a different one.

3. It’s normal for desktops to be that noisy, and I should just get over it.

4. ...?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Submitted December 09, 2017 at 12:57AM by pcbuilder95 http://ift.tt/2AZgkM5 buildapc

OOL for Cases - Barelly any space in my furniture but got to fit a beast inside buildapc

So, long story short - I moved to Japan, I live in a dorm (will be doing so for one year) and I barelly have any space in the furniture (put some of the boxes there for perspective as I do not know exact measures). I currently have this temp setup, I plan on having mouse + Keyboard on the retractable thing, but for now it is more confortable this way.

I have the top and bottom shelves (or I can move the things in the center one to top) free to fit something. I also have a refrigerator that I can free the top part and just use it for a case there. I can't swap the furniture but I can move it around, so I could just leave the refrigerator next to my desk and use it that way.

I still don't have a keyboard nor screen, and I should probably get those two after I sort out which kind of case I am getting, because it all depends on what the furnitures are going to be sorted, I think).

In any case, this (yes I have a 212 because I fear tubing of a WC would pop in my luggage/box when moving back) is what I have to fit inside, essentially (skipping extra info that does not affect any kind of sizing but still the whole thing):

• Intel i7 7700k

• Gigabyte 1080 (Windforce version)

• Asus Z270-A Prime

• Intel M2 SSD (Therefore no extra space require for this)

• Two HDDs

• CM Hyper 212 Evo

• SilverStone Strider 650w (Modular)

• 2x8 Corsair Platinum

And I will probably get a 24", 27" or 31.5" ASUS screen to leave in the center, so I am not sure about space regarding that part.

In other words, I need suggestion on where to leave a case for all this but most importantly, I need a case that fits.

I would prefer it not to be anything fancy or too expensive because I might have to dispose of it on my way back, I am not sure how safe it would be to take everything assembled in a case (moreover it wastes too much space I think).

Submitted October 01, 2017 at 01:39PM by kHeinzen http://ift.tt/2yQd5mb buildapc

[Build Complete] Punching Above it's Body Weight (or, yet another tiny Ryzen build) buildapc

I would like to shoutout /u/awesomegamer919, /u/Bobicusx and /u/Dante-Alighieri for posting in my [Build Ready] thread, which can be found here, as well as /r/buildapc as a whole for being an excellent source of information. My goals/expectations/use cases are listed in the [Build Ready] thread, so you can judge for yourself if I achieved them.

It seems that mITX Ryzen builds are pretty popular nowadays!

Pics

Preliminary Benchmarking, mostly looking at thermals

Just a few (more like a book?) notes about the build itself:

CPU and CPU Cooler The decision was between an i7-7700k and Ryzen 1700x. Long story short , I use my PC for more than just gaming, and given that the GPU tends to bottleneck most heavy gaming situations, I went with the Ryzen. The CPU cooler is the Noctua U9S. It fits like a charm in the M1. Please note that the cooler only comes with one 92mm fan, I purchased a second one separately.

GPU For small ITX cases, given the limited airflow, you typically want a blower style GPU. This serves the primary function of exhausting hot air out of the case. Blowing the hot GPU air out of the system has significant thermal impact on other components in your case, specifically the CPU. Given my concern with the noise levels of traditional blower style cards, I went with a hybrid blower/water cooled 1080 ti from EVGA. The stock radiator fan on the SC2 Hybrid is only 3-pin, and operates at a fixed RPM/Voltage. To fix this, and give my GPU more dynamic cooling, I replaced the stock fan with a 120mm Noctua NF-F12.

Wire Management It's a cramped case, to put it simply. Even with a SFX PSU, there was very little room for routing cables the way I would like. As shown in the album, I had to use zip ties and velcro straps to pull the MOBO power cables away from the radiator fan. The GPU power cables need to be routed underneath the card itself to reach the power supply, and the tubes carrying liquid coolant from the GPU to the radiator are forced and bent into position a bit too much for my liking.

Noise, Thermals, and Overclocking The case is quiet. I have no exact dB levels, but at idle I can hear the hum of my refrigerator over the case, and the case is right on my desk. Under load it of course gets louder, but stays at good levels. Headphones or speakers at comfortable listening volume easily drown out the case noise. To give an example, I could open my window on a slow day and the ambient noise would overcome the case noise. Thermals are quite good. At idle, CPU hovers around 31 C and GPU stays under 29 C. After preliminary benchmarking, under load, GPU maxes out at about 61 C while CPU caps at 55 C. Given how good the thermals and noise levels are, I am heavily considering overclocking. I had originally not intended to overclock due to thermal concerns related to case size, but it looks like I now have a fair bit of wiggle room with the system temps.

Fan Setup I only have one case fan, The fan attached to the GPU radiator pulling air into the case. The case is small, and requires very little to get positive pressure and airflow. The horizontal CPU cooler orientation pulls the input air from the radiator across the interior of the case, and also has the dual purpose of acting like an exhaust fan. After seeing results, it is my opinion that any more than 2 case fans in the M1 is complete overkill. Maximizing airflow space should be a priority, and mounting anything in the slots under the GPU seems like a waste.

Conclusion I'm very, very happy. The build is small, quiet and, most importantly, powerful.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor	$301.98 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler	Noctua - NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler	$58.35 @ Newegg
Motherboard	ASRock - X370 Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard	$149.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory	Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory	$162.99 @ Amazon
Storage	Samsung - 960 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive	$219.99 @ B&H
Video Card	EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 HYBRID GAMING Video Card	$794.98 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply	Corsair - SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply	$119.99 @ Amazon
Operating System	Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit	$89.89 @ OutletPC
Case Fan	Noctua - NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan	$19.11 @ Newegg
Case Fan	Noctua - NF-A9 PWM 46.4 CFM 92mm Fan	$16.49 @ OutletPC
Other	Ncase M1 V5 Silver	$230.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total (before mail-in rebates)	$2173.76
	Mail-in rebates	-$10.00
	Total	$2163.76
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-09-01 21:06 EDT-0400

Submitted September 02, 2017 at 06:47AM by PRSYplays http://ift.tt/2gwZoUG buildapc

How to achieve this light effect in side panel? (see picture) buildapc

Hello. So I decided to do a home DIY project, and I want try to take the light effect seen in some of Monster Energy's refrigerators and replicate the effect in my PC case's glass side panel. The light effect I'm referring to is exhibited here http://ift.tt/2jl5gOd

As you can see, there is a logo in the window, which is illuminated by lights. You can see that there's a sort of infinity mirror effect going on with the logo, creating the effect that there's multiple layers of the logo being seen. I would like to replicate this effect in my case's side panel window, using my own personalized logo.

Inwin did something similar with their Infinity 805 case. However, the difference is that they made it into an actual mirror. I don't want it to become a full mirror. I still want it to be as transparent as a window and still function like one, exactly as seen in Monster's fridge. Does anyone own a Monster fridge with this light affect and/or can explain to me how to reproduce it in my PC case's side panel window? Thanks for any help.

Submitted August 18, 2017 at 10:07PM by deeefoo http://ift.tt/2idqW1x buildapc

How to achieve this light effect in side panel? (see picture) buildapc

Hello. So I decided to do a home DIY project, and I want try to take the light effect seen in some of Monster Energy's refrigerators and replicate the effect in my PC case's glass side panel. The light effect I'm referring to is exhibited here http://ift.tt/2jl5gOd

As you can see, there is a logo in the window, which is illuminated by lights. You can see that there's a sort of infinity mirror effect going on with the logo, creating the effect that there's multiple layers of the logo being seen. I would like to replicate this effect in my case's side panel window, using my own personalized logo.

Inwin did something similar with their Infinity 805 case. However, the difference is that they made it into an actual mirror. I don't want it to become a full mirror. I still want it to be as transparent as a window and still function like one, exactly as seen in Monster's fridge. Does anyone own a Monster fridge with this light affect and/or can explain to me how to reproduce it in my PC case's side panel window? Thanks for any help.

Submitted August 18, 2017 at 10:07PM by deeefoo http://ift.tt/2idqW1x buildapc

Spilled coke all over my Acer Nitro V15 (Gaming laptop of sorts) Not sure what to do buildapc

Probably not the place to post this on Reddit, but every other relevant subreddit seems dead and it looks like this place may be my best bet, even if it gets taken down. Regardless, this all started on Christmas Day. I recently bought a new larger refrigerator and I went on a bit of a making ice phase. We had never had a lot of space in the freezer, but now there was space for making ice and yeah, I made a ton of it... We also happened to have a lot of Coke and of course, I decide to use a tall Coke glass to hold that in with ice - tastes so much better may I add.

Anyway, I'm in a festive mood, I have my Coke situated in front of my laptop and was also eating some corn chips... Before I knew it, I knocked the glass COMPLETELY over the laptop keyboard. Ironically, this happened 3 months previously on my now old laptop and was the catalyst that led me to purchasing this new one. Back to the point, I did not want this laptop to die on me, especially since it was only 3 months old and due to my earlier experience, I knew exactly what to do in order to at least give my laptop a fighting chance. I turned it off immediately, unplugged everything and lifted it upside down before starting to soak up as much of the coke as I could. I kept turning the laptop back on by accident, as the power button is a part of the keyboard in the top right hand corner (terrible design really...).

I kept trying to soak up as much as I could with tissues before I left it to rest for half an hour. While waiting, I looked up what other things I might have missed out and found that maybe I should open it up and see if any liquid spilled in. If it did, then most likely my laptop was a goner... And I didn't want to wait the 24-48 hours some guide was telling me to do. So yeah, I looked for the screwdrivers, opened it up and saw something somewhat bewildering. I poured roughly half a can of Coke on this laptop and no liquid got in... Was it by design? Is this what they call a waterproof keyboard? Or did I react fast enough before the Coke could get into the system? I don't know, but my god, I was so happy when I saw that was the case.

I closed the case and decided to wait 10 minutes before turning it back on and who would have thought? The laptop didn't falter one bit, it was running just as good as before the spillage.

However, over the last 2-3 days, I have realised there is one downfall... I can feel a difference in the keys. Some of them are still sticky and unfortunately, some of them are important ones, like the backspace and enter keys. I can feel the difference and I'm not sure how to really go about cleaning them, especially with this model, the Acer Nitro V15. I've tried cleaning them with just tissue and wet wipes, but it seems to revert back to the sticky form, if albeit slightly better. What should I do? If anyone could help me with this endeavour, I'd be very grateful - I like typing and yeah... it's a bit of a pain to type on. Thanks in advance!

TL;DR: Sticky Coke covered keys on my laptop - how should I go about cleaning them so they don't feel like they're hard to type on?

Submitted December 28, 2016 at 09:18PM by Vowkai http://ift.tt/2htheG5 buildapc

Stick with i3 or go i5 while I still can? buildapc

Hi all,

Thanks for the awesome help getting this build together and for hooking me up with some deals on parts. What started as a pretty poor newbie parts list is now something I'd be proud to hang on the refrigerator.

I'll be putting it together in a day or two, but I'm having second thoughts about the CPU while I'm still in the return window. Should I stick with the i3 or bite the bullet and get an i5-6500?

I'm getting an Asus 1080p 144Hz FreeSync monitor, and I'll primarily be using X-Plane 11, but also Witcher, BF1, Squad, etc. For X-Plane, I'd like high settings at 40+ fps (that's more than good enough for flight sims), and >60 fps for gaming on high/ultra.

For X-Plane 11, the min hardware is listed as Dual Core @ 3 GHz, recommended is Quad Core at 3Ghz.

Thanks!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor	Purchased For $100.69
Motherboard	Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard	Purchased For $27.09
Memory	G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory	Purchased For $59.99
Storage	Samsung 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive	Purchased For $63.59
Storage	Toshiba P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive	Purchased For $40.00
Video Card	Sapphire Radeon RX 480 4GB NITRO+ 4G Video Card	Purchased For $155.00
Case	Cooler Master MasterBox 5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case	Purchased For $47.00
Power Supply	Corsair CXM 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply	Purchased For $40.00
Wireless Network Adapter	Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter	Purchased For $32.99
Keyboard	Corsair STRAFE Wired Gaming Keyboard	Purchased For $45.00
Mouse	Razer DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse	Purchased For $27.00
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$638.35
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-20 22:14 EST-0500

Submitted December 21, 2016 at 08:52AM by GiveErTheGun http://ift.tt/2h0jQYm buildapc

SSD Left out in cold for days! Am I effed? buildapc

Living in a Canadian cold snap - was expecting delivery of an SSD in 7-10 days, they delivered it in 2. Wife usually checks the mail & I forgot to tell her to be on the lookout.

Currently doing a gradual thaw with the refrigerator as a transition - but any other advice would be appreciated. Should I even try and boot it, or just send it back?

Submitted December 20, 2016 at 04:07AM by juxtapozed http://ift.tt/2h3PgR0 buildapc

Case that will fit ROG Rampage V Edition 10 (E-ATX) buildapc

Hi all,

I'm in the process of building/upgrading my system workstation. However, I need some advise or opinions on a case that's not the size of a refrigerator; that can support a E-ATX motherboard. Something not "gamery"; Simply/modern is what I'm after. Currently, my 450D sustains the board just-- looking for a newer fit and finish for a solid chassis/case.

I've done some research and narrowed down my results (see below). I'm wanting someone to chime in with other recommended cases. No 5.25" preferably. Window/Glass and Aluminum.

Maybe a small-mid tower eatx case does not exist?

• A) Phantkes Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass
• B) Suppressor F51 Window / Fractal R5.
• C) CaseLabs Bullet BH7 ATX Case (Smallest footprint I can find).

Thank you!

Submitted December 09, 2016 at 04:45AM by atskovski http://ift.tt/2gpQAgU buildapc

[Discussion] 'Advanced' Cooling: Comments, Concerns, Criticism. buildapc

Im sorry to have to do this, but i simply cant find any new information about a few 'advanced' cooling methods ive been looking into, id like to invite all Comments, Concerns, and Criticism on these subjects.

Firstly, Lets talk about PhaseChange cooling, i saw a LinusTechTips Video on it a few months back and it was really interesting. Unfortunately these cases are insanely expensive and meant for extreme overclocking, not your everyday PC cooling.. i wish.

There are also other issues that ive read about, such as condensation and damage to the hardware from the protective layers failing.

It seems systems built with this cooling method are only to show off the maximum potential the hardware can preform, not for casual use or gaming.

Next, Air Conditioning, the case is built with a refrigerator and it cools the air that flows into the case, simple. The issue im having is not finding any up-to-date info on this method, most of the articles im finding are from 2005-2011, did this method fall off for a reason? Maybe.

Condensation, again it seems this is the most common problem, and it seems that its a lot more of a problem causer than it is in PhaseChange cooling.

Lastly, a story as to why im posting this thread: Recently I've been having heating issues due to a dying pump in my custom waterloop, its not pushing enough water to effectively cool my CPU/GPU while under load, i would buy another pump.. but money is always tight this time of year.

In order to compensate for this lack of cooling, ive resorted to hoarding the two box fans in my house and setting them up in an odd, but very effective way.. I've got one fan in the window, blasting freezing air into my room, and the other sitting next to my open-case PC blowing directly onto the hardware.

I did this in hopes that it would at least allow me to play a couple rounds of Overwatch, but when my temps dropped to below what they where when my Waterloop was at its peak, my jaw dropped.. CPU holding steady at 45-55c while under load? GPU between 50-60c while playing games? Wow, i had no idea the ambient temperature would effect the cooling THIS much..

So now, im here seeking information about case cooling, where i can have my waterloop as normal, but also have the air flowing through my PC as cool as possible without causing issues like condensation.

Comments? Concerns? Criticism?

Submitted December 03, 2016 at 04:54PM by Shrapnel77 http://ift.tt/2gMl0bi buildapc

Building my first PC. Please review my setup buildapc

Hi everyone, thanks for taking a look at my build. with my old laptop coming close to biting the dust and some sales coming up, I'm thinking of finally building a PC like I've always wanted.

I intend to use my computer mostly for mid-end gaming. I want to be able to run newer games like The witcher 3 at a decent framerate with average settings at 1080p resolution. I'll also be using it for low intensity purposes, like internet browsing and watching videos and movies.

I want to be able to do all of this in a roughly $700 price tag (not including keyboard, monitor and speakers), all while staying in a small form factor. Form factor is huge for me (no pun intended), I move around a lot and I don't want to be hauling a refrigerator everywhere I go. with that in mind, I do not intend to overclock this computer. Since it has to be compact I don't want excessive heat to become an issue.

Here's my build so far. I mostly stuck with recommendations from the sidebar, they were very helpful. I'm purchasing all my parts from the USA.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor	$104.99 @ B&H
Motherboard	MSI H110I Pro Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard	$67.98 @ Newegg
Memory	Team Elite Plus 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory	$22.98 @ Newegg
Memory	Team Elite Plus 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory	$22.98 @ Newegg
Storage	Kingston SSDNow KC400 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive	$159.99 @ B&H
Video Card	Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card	$129.99 @ Newegg
Case	Thermaltake Core V1 Mini ITX Tower Case	$28.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply	Thermaltake TR2 500W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply	$63.99 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System	Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit	$85.58 @ OutletPC
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total (before mail-in rebates)	$727.47
	Mail-in rebates	-$40.00
	Total	$687.47
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-27 19:57 EST-0500

I could probably save some money by having a smaller SDD for the OS and a hard disk for storage, but I'm worried I'll run out of room in my tiny shoebox case. If I run out of storage on the drive I can always add additional drives later, right?

what do you think of my build? Any bottlenecks? Any pitfalls I'm stepping into? I'm new to building PC's so I'm not sure if there's any mistakes I'm making. The biggest area of confusion for me is the graphics card. I'm not sure how to tell what the most powerful ones are, but the one I have listed had good reviews.

Thanks again for taking a look and please let me know what you think!

Submitted November 28, 2016 at 06:48AM by OatsNraisin http://ift.tt/2g8rdjF buildapc

Could I touch my refrigerator to equalise the static electricity with the earth? buildapc

My refrigerator is large, and metal. I can't use my PC case because it will be plastic, and apparently I need something metal. The refrigerator is on rubber feet that touch a hardwood floor. Will this accomplish what I need it to do (which is to discharge static?)

Thanks.

Submitted October 11, 2016 at 09:39AM by BillyGoatAl http://ift.tt/2dLQMFr buildapc

[Discussion] Would a Kimchi Refrigerator Build Work Any Better Than The Old Fridge Build? buildapc

Okay so I've been pondering about various things and this thought came to me Kimchi Refrigerators: ⋅Colder than traditional ⋅More consistent temperatures than traditional

Along with this, there were some cons I found too after I thought of the idea ⋅More humid ⋅less moving air

Those cons can be fixed(probably not sure how)

Submitted August 03, 2016 at 04:10PM by hppiasianninja http://ift.tt/2ahwLGU buildapc

Tech problem. Coil whine buildapc

Sorry for a bad eng, just learning it.

I have a pretty weird problem.

one apartment, 3 pc's and one laptop.

i7 920 + zalman 500le + gtx660

Coil whine while mouse move and while in BIOS

fx8320e + cheiftek 600w + gtx 680

coil whine while mouse move and a bit while low load

i3 ivy bridge + noname psu no gpu

Coil whine while mouse move and windows boot

Laptop start to make such noise last 3 month.

I canged power cord, filter, check out my room voltage, its 223, and thats fine.

Plugged my tech directly to wall, nothing helped.

All the time, all tech in my appartment have a coil whine, except phones and refrigerator.

Submitted March 25, 2016 at 01:29AM by ShutnikMods http://ift.tt/1LKsfOo buildapc

[Troubleshooting] Gaming Computer doesn't power up correctly! buildapc

Troubleshooting Help:

What is your parts list? Consider formatting your parts list.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type	Item	Price
CPU	Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor	$227.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler	Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler	$24.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard	MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard	$82.99 @ NCIX US
Memory	Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory	$36.99 @ Micro Center
Storage	Samsung 850 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive	$71.78 @ OutletPC
Storage	Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive	$45.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card	Sapphire Radeon R9 390 8GB Nitro Video Card	$305.00
Case	Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case	$64.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply	EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply	$92.10 @ Amazon
Operating System	Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit)	$89.88 @ OutletPC
Monitor	Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor	Purchased For $214.71
UPS	CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD UPS	$175.95 @ Directron
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total (before mail-in rebates)	$1483.14
	Mail-in rebates	-$50.00
	Total	$1433.14
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-11 01:06 EST-0500

Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive.

I recently built a computer and have used it for about a week at my parents house with no problems. However I just moved back to my apartment near my university, and the computer won't display anything to the monitor.

A little backstory, my two bedroom apartment is old and it doesn't have grounded outlets. Also whenever the refrigerator kicks on, the lights noticeably dim for a few seconds. I have purchased a set of GFCI outlets, but I haven't switched the outlets out.

List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.

Whenever I turn on the computer, the CPU and case fans kick in, but the graphics card will run for a few seconds if at all. Most of the time the graphics card fans are not running at all. The power button LED light turns on as well.

I have tested the computer with cheater prongs (adapters for two pronged outlets) as well as power strips. I have tried plugging the monitor and the computer into the uninterruptible power supply with no success.

My computer power load is estimated at a 450 Watts while the uninterruptible power supply, shows only ~100 Watts as output. The uninterruptible power supply also occasionally shows only ~100 Volts as input.

My apartment has two circuits, one runs through five rooms (kitchen, two bedrooms, dinning room, bathroom, and hallway including refrigerator + microwave) and the other runs with two rooms (bedroom and living room). I've tested my computer on three outlets on both circuits.

Post relevant photos of build/parts here.

Replace this text with your answer.

Provide any additional details you wish below.

I know some of the numbers are approximate, but i'm really tired and really frustrated about the whole situation. I would really appreciate any advice at all.

I will be happy to post pictures tomorrow if anyone is interested.

Submitted January 11, 2016 at 11:55AM by rockonrhydon http://ift.tt/1SIMqwM buildapc

[Build Ready] buildapc

Build Help/Ready:

Have you read the sidebar and rules? (Please do)

Yes

What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.

General use, internet, office, gaming but not extremely

If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, FPS, game settings)

I only want to be able to play to recent games, not high graffics.

What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?

900 € max

In what country are you purchasing your parts?

Spain

Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!). Provide any additional details you wish below.

• CPU Intel 1150 I5 4690K 4x3.5 GHz
• MSI H97 PC MATE ATX
• Seagate HDD 1TB 7200RPM SATA3 64mb
• Samsung SSD 2.5 120GB Serie 850 Evo
• Kingston 8GB 1866 DDR3 CL10 DIMM K2 HX Fury Red
• Corsair CX V2 600W Builder 80+ Bronce Atx
• Cooler Master Refrigerator Hyper 212 EVO
• Gygabyte VGA NVIDA GTX 750 TI BK 2GB DDR5

This PC costs 908 €, would you change anything at more or less same price? Thanks

Submitted July 10, 2015 at 07:01PM by TillColapse http://ift.tt/1JTTX9i buildapc

Refrigerated PC? buildapc

So my father does heating an air, and has access to any commercial refrigerant. Is there a way for me to set up some kind of system to have my PC case essentially a refrigerator? Any ideas? Has it been done?

Submitted May 09, 2015 at 01:21AM by DirkEnglish http://ift.tt/1cwtfFx buildapc

In what way can i eliminate all my case fans, including my cpu fan? Is there a method of liquid cooling that acts like refrigerators? buildapc

In what way can I eliminate all my case fans, including my cpu fan? Is there a method of liquid cooling that acts like refrigeration units?

EDIT: eliminate fans and keep the temperature down.

Submitted March 30, 2015 at 01:48AM by whynotdairy http://ift.tt/1NuEjzV buildapc

[Discussion] Why aren't refrigerator super cooling kits popular? buildapc

Phase change seems like an effective way to cool components, if you're going for an all out rig. Is there anyone with experience using a system? What are the pros and cons?

Submitted March 24, 2015 at 12:05AM by Rwantare http://ift.tt/1boAMFH buildapc