We are making an offer on a condo in the Galleria area of Houston,TX and intend to hire an inspector soon. The current owner had an inspection done about 8 months ago and has not made improvements so we expect our inspection results to be the same or worse.
We would love some idea of how much it would cost to fix these problems, ourselves or by a contractor. Thanks!
Roof Structures & Attics
Attic horizontal insulation consists of approximately 6-8” of blown material. Modern minimum standard for most commonly available materials is around 10”. Recommend that more insulation be added after all other mechanical repairs and improvements are finished in the attic.
Attic stairs: Hinge hardware loose. Stair jamb should be secured properly to ceiling joists at hinge and at side pivots (nail or use lag bolts through metal flanges, as per typical manufacturer's directions; no deck or sheetrock screws). Failure to perform these repairs can result in sudden and catastrophic stair collapse, and is a hazardous condition. Attic stair door does not seal properly.
Energy losses from air leakage and limited insulation value at attic stairs can be addressed by installing a cover box or dedicated tent, and weatherstripping the door panel.
Attic ventilation is poor. Some method for improving ventilation should be considered, such as adding soffit vents, to feed a ridge vent. High attic temperatures can void shingle warranties and present an unnecessary load on cooling equipment.
No draftstopping ("fireblocking") in the attic between the attic and the second floor, next to the return air plenum.
Walls
Close off drywall around the breaker panel in the garage. Garage wall is a fire-separation assembly and can't have openings of this kind.
Ceilings & Floors
Close off hole in sheetrock above the water heater in the garage.
Sponginess at flooring at the top of the stairs likely is related to uneven substrate under the flooring product. This is an aesthetic issue only.
Doors (Interior & Exterior)
Front door bottom weatherstripping drags on the tile floor.
Client should be aware that the latest standard calls for the door from the kitchen to the garage to be self-closing. This is a fire safety code item.
Windows One front BR window does not latch/ seal properly.
Window screen missing at front BR. Some screens are deteriorating.
Fireplaces and Chimneys No firescreen. Firescreen should always be used when logs are lit.
Has Chimney been inspected by a chimney specialist?
Electrical Systems
Main electrical entrance consists of an underground service "drop" to a modern breaker panel with a 200 amp main means of disconnect. Deadfront cover and grounding electrode present at main panel. Note that modern standard requires a second grounding electrode unless testing shows <25 ohms resistance at existing electrode.
Romex cables where entering the main panel are not secured properly as per NEC Section 312.5 (C), which states that "each cable shall be secured to the cabinet, cutout box, or socket enclosure." Grouping many cables together through one opening as was done here was a very common practice until recently, with municipal authorities approving such installations in many cases. While most installers and inspectors apparently have avoided dealing with this situation, the client should be aware that this was not a correct installation as per the NEC. Diagram shows correct installation.
One knockout is missing from the panel deadfront cover. (Unused openings for circuit breakers and switches shall be closed using identified closures, or other approved means that provide protection substantially equivalent to the wall of the enclosure.)
Panel cover screws are not blunt type. Pointed screws can damage conductor insulation inside panel. All 240v breaker pairs should have trip ties.
White wires used as hots at 240v breakers should be identified as such.
All breakers should be labeled. Unable to tell what loads some of the breakers are for, and whether they are rated for these loads. Every circuit and circuit modification shall be legibly identified as to its clear, evident, and specific purpose or use. The identification shall include sufficient detail to allow each circuit to be distinguished from all others. The identification shall be included in a circuit directory that is located on the face or inside of the panel door.
Branch Circuits, Connected Devices, and Fixtures Some areas of the dwelling lack the full modern complement of receptacles, such as at the kitchen countertop at each side of the cooktop, at the back bathroom right side sink, and at the front exterior.
Wiring methods: Unprofessional installation of cabling, junction boxes, and devices in attic and under the kitchen cooktop:
Splices not enclosed in junction box, in the attic at the furnace.
Open junction box under the kitchen cooktop.
Conductors where they enter the electric furnace housing lack proper clamp/ protection.
Exposed Romex® on the back roof where wiring comes out of a roof flashing for the condensing unit.
Switches/ disconnects: Ceiling fan at back bedroom is controlled by a light dimmer. This is a fire hazard.
Fan speed control for front BR ceiling fan was not located.
A/C condensing unit on the roof does not have a proper means of disconnect at the unit.
Electric furnace does not have a means of disconnect at the unit, or lockable breaker in the service panel.
Some switches have no readily identifiable purpose.
Lights/ luminaires: Compact fluorescent bulbs noted at fixtures controlled by a dimmer, back BR. These bulbs to do not appear to be rated for such use (though there are compact fluorescent bulbs available that are dimmable), and constitute a fire hazard in the present situation.
Front BR closet light is not an enclosed type fixture. This is a fire hazard.
Balcony light did not come on.
Cold water and hot water lines should be bonded at the water heater, as per modern safety standard. High GFCI protection not present at kitchen counter left of the sink, at wet bar, at garage (including garage ceiling), and at the exterior (balcony GFCI will not reset).
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning Systems Backup heat did not come on when actuated.
Primary condensate drain apparently runs directly to a DWV (sewer) stack at the front bathroom, presumably with its own trap in the wall. This arrangement is controversial (and no longer permitted in new construction), as it can allow sewer gases to enter into the HVAC system if the trap dries out. Ideally drain should be run to an active trap, such as at a tub or lavatory, or to the outside.
Condenser coil unit on the roof is not level.
Return air plenum should be cleaned out. Also remove wiring from return at first floor.
Plumbing System Various fixtures here have white nylon braided flex water supply connectors that are known to swell and eventually fail over many years of service. Client is urged to replace these with modern armored type "no burst" flex connectors.
Kitchen area: Refrigerator icemaker supply is a copper line originating at a cheap saddle fitting under the kitchen sink. The only shut off is this valve at the source, which would be difficult to find and turn off in an emergency. Ideally, there would be a new hard pipe supply and shutoff.
Front bath: Toe-tester diverter not working at shower.
Toe-tester spigot should be sealed to the tile.
Back bath: Right side sink pop-up (drainstop) not working properly.
Access to tub supplies, overflow, and drain is adequate for inspection purposes. Removable panel present.
The tub is designed to be installed as a deck mounted type only, and not inside a tub-shower enclosure. In a deck mounted tub, there is no vertical flange that would go behind the tiled walls, hence over time water could penetrate the caulk joints at the three sides of the tub and cause damage within walls.
Tub drainstop didn't work.
Half Bath: Lavatory drain uses a corrugated repair piece. This product can foul, and should be replaced with smoothwall pipe.
Water Heating Equipment
T&P (temperature and pressure relief safety) valve drain not present. Must be ¾” hot water pipe to the outside.
Corrosion at water connection.
Appliances
Dishwasher: Discharge hose lacks proper backflow prevention. Hang hose directly under countertop, or install backflow valve/ air gap at cabinet deck. This helps prevent contaminated water from the sink draining back to the dishwasher and contaminating clean dishes.
Oven: Oven Door not closing all the way; gapping at top seal.
Bath exhaust fans apparently mostly vent to the soffit or attic only, should be vented to the outside. Reference (2000 IRC R303.3): "Ventilation air from the space shall be exhausted directly to the outside."
Dryer Exhaust Systems
Dryer vent terminates in the attic. Vent ideally would use only smoothwall metal pipe, with a dedicated vent as shown on the roof. Clothes dryer vent line has now been in service for some years, and likely has a build-up of lint and debris; recommend examination and professional cleaning as needed.
Submitted May 16, 2015 at 11:37AM by moxiruthann http://ift.tt/1FexDlZ HomeImprovement
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