Showing posts with label homeautomation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homeautomation. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 13, 2017

What's the oddest thing you've automated? homeautomation

As for me, I'm about to figure out how to add door sensors to my refrigerator doors because at least once someone (yes, I'm looking at you kids) has left the door partially ajar and the next morning the fridge had warmed-up to 100-degrees (there was enough of a gap for the cold air to escape while the 2 incandescent bulbs did a GREAT job heating up the interior. Luckily there wasn't anything that could spoil in the fridge (we just cleaned it out), but I've been freaked out ever since.



Submitted December 13, 2017 at 12:25PM by chowyungfatso http://ift.tt/2j0Svsp homeautomation

Saturday, August 5, 2017

Arlo, Arlo Pro or other? homeautomation

Hi everyone! I own an old lake home and I'm looking into getting some security cameras to look over things when I'm not up there during the week. I'm looking to place one facing the driveway and another towards the lake. I do have internet up there during the summer, but do shut the power off to most areas except the refrigerator and septic system.

I saw that Sams Club had a deal on three Arlo originals for $299 but when talking to Best Buy they said I'd go broke buying the batteries and recommended the Pro. I did see that I could get rechargeable batteries but that's $50 per camera. What do you guys think? Any recommendations? Experiences with either Arlo? Thanks!!!



Submitted August 05, 2017 at 09:46PM by uwbadger911 http://ift.tt/2hybs84 homeautomation

Arlo, Arlo Pro or other? homeautomation

Hi everyone! I own an old lake home and I'm looking into getting some security cameras to look over things when I'm not up there during the week. I'm looking to place one facing the driveway and another towards the lake. I do have internet up there during the summer, but do shut the power off to most areas except the refrigerator and septic system.

I saw that Sams Club had a deal on three Arlo originals for $299 but when talking to Best Buy they said I'd go broke buying the batteries and recommended the Pro. I did see that I could get rechargeable batteries but that's $50 per camera. What do you guys think? Any recommendations? Experiences with either Arlo? Thanks!!!



Submitted August 05, 2017 at 09:46PM by uwbadger911 http://ift.tt/2hybs84 homeautomation

Friday, August 4, 2017

Freezer or refrigerator notification homeautomation

I just lost a 1/2 freezer of meat and fish because some dumb ass left the door ajar. As the actual dumb ass I was wondering Is there a sensor that can notify me via text or email when my dumb ass does it again? I am hoping for a temperature sensor with an above a minimum trigger to notify. That would cover me being a dumb ass, circuit beaker or just the freezer breaking down.



Submitted August 05, 2017 at 03:45AM by cattrapper http://ift.tt/2wtwFCC homeautomation

Friday, February 10, 2017

Hacking non-connected appliances? homeautomation

I recently purchased a new Liebherr refrigerator, Siemens washer and Siemens dryer. These appliances are rather new with their own computerized chips but are not "connected" devices. For example, the washing machine is a Siemens IQ700. The version up from it is connected but this one is not. I bought these appliances last year before I got into home automation. They already have nice features built in. The refrigerator, for example, has a door sensor and beeps when left open as well as many other options. The door sensor has actually come in handy more than I would have assumed. That being said, I would still like to tie it into my home automation system. I'm wondering if there is any way to hack appliances to use their sensors/etc.

I realize this is a broad question however I'm looking for a starting point into this method if it's possible or not.



Submitted February 11, 2017 at 03:06AM by scabadaska http://ift.tt/2kemlbe homeautomation

Sunday, January 22, 2017

Help adding support for Wink devices to Homeassistant homeautomation

I am in the process of adding a lot of new functionality and supported devices to http://ift.tt/2jNOqKR this is the library used to add Wink support for Home-Assistant.

python-wink is currently missing support for the follow devices, and I need help collecting JSON data on these.

  • Quirky Aros Air Conditioner
  • Arlo camera + Available modes in the Wink app
  • Nest camera + Available modes in the Wink app
  • Ring stickup cam + Available modes in the Wink app
  • Dropcam + Available modes in the Wink app
  • Refrigerators
  • Water heaters
  • Quirky nimbus
  • Canary security camera / alarm system
  • Quirky refuel
  • Keen smart vent

Useful JSON that is probably supported, but could help still.

  • Winkhub v2
  • Hue hub
  • spotter v2
  • ecobee thermostat
  • iHome smart plug

If anyone has these devices and is willing to help, please reply with the JSON output of your device. You can obtain this information from http://ift.tt/2iRhjSi by selecting the info icon on the device and moving to the JSON text box.

WARNING! There is sensitive info in this JSON, please make sure to change the following fields to protect your privacy.

  • lat_lng (please replace with normal numbers, not a string)
  • location
  • subscribe_key
  • channel
  • uuid

These fields are the only sensitive fields, so please leave all others un-altered. You can validate the format of your JSON after using this site http://ift.tt/1Ji3WCB



Submitted January 22, 2017 at 11:59PM by w1ll1am23 http://ift.tt/2jFOB80 homeautomation

Wednesday, January 4, 2017

Door/window sensor small enough to use on a refrigerator? homeautomation

I'd really like a sensor to tell me if my refrigerator is left open. I tried a GoControl but it's just a little too big (or the magnet is not sensitive enough) to go where it would need to be placed.

Does anyone know of a Wink-compatible sensor that doesn't require another hub that might work on a refrigerator? It either needs to be small enough to fit on the top of the refrigerator below the freezer, or have a sensitive enough magnet to be placed on the side, where the two parts would be about an inch apart.

Thanks for any ideas!



Submitted January 05, 2017 at 03:59AM by Lynn_L http://ift.tt/2iR8lEL homeautomation

Friday, August 19, 2016

You think you know your Platform/HUB, but you have no idea homeautomation

I have noticed a lot of the consumers getting into home automation are understanding what these home automation platforms do but seem to know very little about the basics of how they work. This is just a brief write up, of three home automation platforms available on the market (WINK, Smartthings and WigWag), focusing just on the HUBs and the basics of their platform technology approaches. There are many more, but almost all fall into the same basic technology and infrastructural designs as these (i.e cloud-to-cloud, localized and hybrid which is part cloud-to-cloud and part localized)

WINK

HUB hardware specs 433Mhz (Kidde): PIC16F883 Microcontroller w/TI CC1101 RF Transceiver 433Mhz (Lutron): STM32L100R8 (ARM Cortex M3 @ 32Mhz w/64Kb Flash) w/same TI CC1101 RF Transceiver Z-Wave: Sigma Designs SD3502A Zigbee: Ember EM357 (Cortex M3 based SoC w/192Kb Flash and 12Kb RAM) WiFi/BT: Unknown; Chip with markings "5408E3 E423B1" Host CPU: Freescale i.MX28 @ 454Mhz Ethernet: Part of PCB layout but not populated

Wink’s software approach is cloud-to-cloud (this means all device functions and processing happens in the cloud and only the commands are sent and received locally). This can lead to latency or issues when internet is out. Also, limits the overall functionality of the platform in the future.

Controlling and onboarding devices are all done through the use of the Wink app, which is a very limited approach. This means essentially you just have a universal remote control for devices. There are no rules involved or any type of control outside of direct controls. Home automation is about having an environment that works with you and helps you out. Although the Wink app allows you to do some automation of tasks, like creating a schedule of lights to turn on, advanced integrations of devices has to be done through a third-party rule engine like IFTTT. IFTTT is cloud based, so if the Internet goes out your IFTTT rules will not execute.

Since the WINK hub is cloud-to-cloud, it can’t support USB ports, thus having no room for expansion. Also, Wink has a closed code base; everything is done by them.

Wireless protocols supported: BLE, Zwave, Zigbee, Wifi & Kidde Lutron

SmartThings

HUB hardware specs The new SmartThings hub has a powerful processor that enables video monitoring and battery backup that will allow SmartThings to continue to work for up to 10 hours in the case of a power or Internet outage. It also includes a local app engine that makes SmartThings less reliant on the cloud and enables quicker communications.

The Hub has been upgraded with a new 1GHz ARM Cortex-A9 processor, 512MB DDR3 RAM, and 4GB of Flash Memory. (This upgrade had to be made because they ran into the flaws that were previously explained with the Wink platform. The old hub just wouldn’t of had the processing power to handle local processing. Since they already had a big cloud-to-cloud only platform to begin with this now gives them some local processing.)

Additionally, the new Hub has support for SHP (Samsung’s Smart Home Protocol) which is used by appliances such as refrigerators, laundry machines, and a friggin’ sweet robot vacuum cleaner. SmartThings is the only home automation platform that supports SHP over LAN. Because they include support for ZigBee, Z-Wave, and LAN-connected devices and have a Bluetooth (BLE) radio that will be enabled with a future software update, this does give their hub an ability to absorb many device types into their ecosystem.

However, SmartThings software technology is mainly cloud-to-cloud with some features that run locally. Everything is done through their mobile app(this leads to same issues described with Wink). There is some basic rule type features in their platform but, for anything complicated, a third party rule engine would have to be used, like IFTTT.

In description they mention they have a battery for up to 10 hrs of extra life, if power goes out. In this situation however all rules made will not run and all local controls from phone also will not work because there will be no LAN if router has no power. (All platforms when disconnected from the internet won’t have internet required features such a push notifications or controlling devices from outside of home/location)

The smartthings hub has two USB ports. This is because they have some localized processing. This allows for expansion of hub to things such a memory storage, or expanding the amount of radios on the HUB.

Smartthings has a very limited slightly open-source code base. Where they control almost everything for their platform.

Wireless protocols supported BLE Zwave Zigbee Wifi

WIGWAG

HUB hardware specs A20 with arm A7 dual core 1Ghz processor 4GB of flash memory 2 802.15.4 radios CC2530 1 Zwave radio 2 USB ports (can use to expand and and in Insteon/BLE)

Wigwags software tech runs locally on machine and uses the cloud for analytics, security, and data storage(an example why this is good thing is all other platforms no longer support TCP bulbs, wigwags platform still does). The wigwag platform has both a web app (this is good for your settings. From in here you can do such things as change the wireless channel on one of you wireless protocols or have settings that block certain devices. A mobile app is great for quick controls and onboarding but once the modern home has hundreds of devices attached doing everything through mobile just will not be practical. This is also where their full rule builder is) and a mobile app. It has its own built in rule engine so that even if internet goes out all rules and controls still work locally. All applications can work locally on the relay. You can access the rule builder, relay admin panel, mobile app direct control all locally. Data is synced between cloud and relay whenever they link up again.

The implications of this are that you can build rules in the cloud when you relay isn't even connected and they will sync to your relay when it reconnects. Rules run (barring any cloud only capabilities like email) even when cloud is not connected. Only thing that needs cloud right now is analytics gathering (i.e. the feed).

Wigwags software will be released as all open-source. One will eventually be able to add any device, apps on their own. It can even take the whole source code and put it on their own hardware if the user wanted.

Wireless protocols supported Insteon(expandable dongle) Zwave Zigbee Sixlowpan Wifi

Right now these differences may not be apparent for users, but going forward the approach each platform/HUB takes is going to affect the expanability and usefulness in the coming years. Knowing these difference now may help save a lot of money, time, and headaches in the future.



Submitted August 19, 2016 at 11:37PM by davidkoreshjr http://ift.tt/2bDkMkx homeautomation

Monday, August 15, 2016

Health/Fitness Based Integrations? homeautomation

Just wondering if I can get my bodyweight scale to lock the refrigerator if I weigh too much. LOL! (j/k)

Seriously, though ...

Does anyone have any health/fitness based automations products or set ups? The main things I'm thinking about are things such as:

  • Smart scales (e.g. Withings WiFi Scale)

  • Blood pressure monitors (e.g. Omron Bluetooth BP Monitor)

  • Camera setups that allows you to take a photo of yourself every day over time to show how your fitness/shape is changing.

  • Or data related things like those finger-tip oximeters that measure blood oxygen saturation.

I'm mostly just trying to get ideas for what's possible. This isn't the usual Home Automation fare, so I expect a few downvotes. If there's another more appropriate sub for this kind of stuff, please, by all means, point me in that direction!

Thanks!



Submitted August 16, 2016 at 03:42AM by Animum_Rege http://ift.tt/2btzDxL homeautomation

Health/Fitness Based Integrations? homeautomation

Just wondering if I can get my bodyweight scale to lock the refrigerator if I weigh too much. LOL! (j/k)

Seriously, though ...

Does anyone have any health/fitness based automations products or set ups? The main things I'm thinking about are things such as:

  • Smart scales (e.g. Withings WiFi Scale)

  • Blood pressure monitors (e.g. Omron Bluetooth Scale)

  • Camera setups that allows you to take a photo of yourself every day over time to show how your fitness/shape is changing.

  • Or data related things like those finger-tip oximeters that measure blood oxygen saturation.

I'm mostly just trying to get ideas for what's possible. This isn't the usual Home Automation fare, so I expect a few downvotes. If there's another more appropriate sub for this kind of stuff, please, by all means, point me in that direction!

Thanks!



Submitted August 16, 2016 at 03:42AM by Animum_Rege http://ift.tt/2btzDxL homeautomation

Sunday, July 17, 2016

"Superset" pre-wire list homeautomation

Years ago I was constantly asked about the "superset" of pre-wiring needs. I first posted this list in 2007, reposting contents here as its roughly still accurate. Yes I realize wireless has come a long way and many will want that, hence the concept of this being a "superset". Also, I'm leaving the 18/2 (power) and CAT5e(signal) as not everything is PoE enabled. This is the original thread in case you want to see any of the chatter, including where folks disagreed with me. http://ift.tt/29I0tzZ

In addition to running multiple empty 2" conduits, if I had money to burn i'd run the following:
Too much is never enough...
 
Security & Safety:
1) Occupancy: Motion sensors for every room, run 18/4 for that. You can integrate a home automation system in here to do occupancy-based rules about what to turn on/off/etc.
2) Security: Siren/CO/Smoke/Heat/Glassbreak sensors, most of them use 18/4, heat may use 22/2.
3) Driveway and or/fence gates for open/close status: 22/2 or CAT5. I have young kids so it's nice to know and have the system be able to announce that someone has just opened up the driveway gate.
4) Gate phone/gate opener. A couple direct burial cat5 if there is a gate in drive way.
5) Safety/Elk:Water Sensors near hot water heater or other flood-prone locations. CAT5 I think.
6) Security Keypad, prox sensors, pin readers. CAT5. Put 1 at each point of entry/exit, plus 1 in each bedroom to serve as a 'panic button'.
7) Usage: Door sensors for every closet door in case you want to do auto-lighting-on, run 22/2 (or CAT5 to a central location) for that. Sounds dumb, but my wife really likes not having to manually turn her closet light on/off, and gets really pissy when the cheap-ass zWave switch I got doesn't work.
8) Window sensors: 22/2, or if you have multiple together you could do CAT5 to the middle one and 22/2 to each window.
9) HA Speakers: Due to it being irritating to have audio pause to hear HA announcements/etc, I personally chose to mount a 2nd set of speakers just for HA (doorbell/phone/HA announcements/intruder alerts), and got the single-gang Elk $7 speakers. I ran CAT5 to the Elk, and put each of them on a relay so I can turn each of them on/off. Don't forget outside speakers too, such as patio, driveway, and front door. As mentioned in the gate bullet above, when the gate is opened, my system turns on the outside speaker and plays my gruff voice recording saying "driveway gate opened, video camera recording". That way if it's a bad guy, he knows that the house is watching.
10) CCTV. Either 18/2(power) + 1RG6(signal) or 1 CAT5 (i think you can do power & signal over one)
11) door access control. 18/2 (maybe 22/2)
12) Swimming pool alert sensor.
 
Home Automation
13) Doorbell: If you get an Elk panel, you could use CAT5 for the doorbell and have an Elk-based doorbell rather than a generic chime. Plus that way you'd be setup in the future to automatically pop up a frontdoor camera on doorbell ring, and not rely on the doorbell detector. My wife really likes walking by the kitchen touchscreen before the door to see who it is.
14) HVAC: 2 CAT5 to your thermo (one for integration with PC or Elk, one in case you want remote thermos)
15) Irrigation: 1 CAT5 to the controller
16) Temperature monitoring: 1 22/4 or CAT5 to any room where you want to mount a temp sensor to get temps in each room. I vote putting one in the attic, basement, each bedroom, family room, & living room. Unless you have some other temp source (ie, Elk security system keypad has a built-in temp sensor, or obviously a thermostat).
 
Audio/Video
17) DirecTV/Digital Cable: The new DirecTV antennas use 4 RG6 per concurrent tuner you want. Digital cable needs 1 RG6 from outside to the box. (NOTE THIS IS not VIDEO DISTRIBUTION, Just capture).
18) Video distribution. 1 CAT5 can handle component distro (if you use baluns), some products require 2 CAT5, or 3RG6 (without baluns). I'd recommend baluns as you can stick with just running CAT5. I believe 2 CAT5 can also handle HDMI distribution.
19) Audio distribution. 1 CAT5 per every 2 directions/devices. I.E., if you have a local source, you can use a cat5 to send it back to your central controller. 1cat5 can handle two pairs, so you can either have 2 local sources, or 1 local source and 1 outbound from an unpowered zone on your WHA controller to send to a local stereo.
20) Plasma or projector control. 18/2 & CAT5 to any location you may want a projector mounted, CAT5 to your plasma for control.
21) Local device control. (ie, local receiver control via serial) - 1 CAT5 per device. You'll need more of these than you think.
22) Russound/NuVo Keypads. Route speaker wiring via this location and also run CAT5.
23) In-Wall speakers. Run 16/4 speaker wire to EVERY room, including bathrooms. You may think its nutty now (as my wife did), but once everything else is done and you have the spare whole-house-amp connections, real Whole-Home-Audio will be freaky deaky cool (as my wife now thinks).
24) Subwoofer. a 14/2 as an addition to Subwoofer connection, may be another 22/2 for IR if you intend to use Velodyn DLS-R Sub
25) External speakers. Direct burial 14/4s Rock speakers & in ground Sub
26) IR receivers. Run 1 CAT5 to any location you want an IR receiver. I ran one to 3 different rooms where I wanted an in-room IR eye, not an RF retransmitter.
27) Dedicated CCTV Distro: Additional RG6 or RG59 and 22/4 (to control) from CCTV DVR enclosure to TV locations where you wish to view activities.
28) HDTV Antenna: 1 RG6 for external antenna on roof
29) XM: 1 RG6 for XM signal cable to an external antenna
 
General
30) Network & Telephones. Both drops for rooms plus wireless access points in strategic locations. Yeah, I know, not HA related, but may as well list all random things that could need wiring together so you don't forget. Run at least 2, so you can have both network & telephone wherever you want.
31) Touchscreens. 18/2 & 2 CAT5 (should only need 1, but if you get a touchscreen only you'll need one for video, one for serial touchscreen control). You could merge this with above if you think you'll start with keypads and move on to TS's.
32) Water control valve.
33) hardwired lighting control. cat5e to every light switch, Lutron HomeWorks (currently) requires 2 pair conductor (18/2 + 18-22/2 STP, Class 2) to the switch
34) ceiling & bathroom fan control.
35) LAN to kitchen island/refrigerator/freezer/etc.
36) shade/curtain/shutter control and power. 18/2 & cat5.
37) skylights. 18/2 & CAT5
38) Run power to some telephone jacks (e.g. kitchen), so the phone wall wart isn't located 5 feet away.
39) Cell phone repeater antenna.



Submitted July 18, 2016 at 05:20AM by IVBIVB http://ift.tt/2a09uIB homeautomation

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Remote controlled inline dimmer? Unique situation. homeautomation

TL:DR at the bottom.

I live full time in an RV and the wife and I just bought a brand new 44' bunk house. She is finally going to let me realize my dream and retofit the home theater and lighting in the living room to suit our needs more easily.

I have the home theater planned to revolve around a Harmony Home Control remote (with the Harmony Hub of course). One remote to rule them all, right? I am currently at an impasse, the harmony hub based remotes can control all manner of home theater and home automation devices, the problem is, I don't live in a house, I live in a RV.

All of the lighting in an RV is 12 Volt. You have an inverter/converter that charges deep cycle 12 volt batteries to run the essential functions in the trailer, but you get your 120V AC power from a 50A cord that plugs in to the "shore power" at the RV park wherever you happen to park. The 50A power runs the big stuff like the A/C and Refrigerator.

The harmony hub based remote can set up "activities" like "Watch a Movie" and it will power on all of the necessary devices, select the proper inputs for your movie watching, and you can set it to dim the lights as everything else is powering on. It is compatible with the Insteon hub and it's compatible switches and devices, and Insteon makes an inline dimmer that works with the hub and would be placed behind the paneling and out of site to work with the Harmony Hub remote to control the lights. The only problem is that it is designed to work with 100-240V ac stuff. All of my lights are 12V led.

TL:DR Does anyone know of an inline dimmer that would work with the 12V led lighting that I have in my RV to allow me to control them with the Harmony Hub Remote? An inline switch like this would be perfect, but the voltage won't match up.



Submitted July 13, 2016 at 03:19AM by KAcotton http://ift.tt/29BCqZ9 homeautomation

Wednesday, June 8, 2016

Definitive guide for finding clearance items at home depot (ge link bulbs, go control sensors, iris, etc.) homeautomation

This question keeps coming up and my answer is buried in several threads. Here's how you do it (until a home depot redditor sees this and jumps in to spoil the party) ;)

Part 1 - Searching HD inventory

  1. CLEARANCE ITEMS ARE NOT ON THE WEBSITE.
  2. See number one. You need to understand this before going forward.
  3. You can either jump on an empty home depot computer (fastest way) or have an employee help you..but see #1 because 90% of the time they will not use the computer correctly and simply pull up the website to show its FULL PRICE and get you out of their hair. Gently point them to the "PRICE CHECKER" icon on the computer.
  4. The stand-up computer station in the middle of the refrigerators or middle of lighting is typically empty. you can just walk over, dismiss the screensaver and click on the...wait for it...
  5. ...PRICE CHECKER ICON! This is the only useful button on that computer.
  6. Before using PRICE CHECKER, remember step 1 above. IF THE ITEM IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE AT THE HOME DEPOT IT WILL NOT SHOW UP.
  7. Once you understand #6, you are ready to proceed.
  8. Type "wink" and anything related to wink automation will show up INCLUDING GO CONTROL ESSENTIALS and GO CONTROL PREMIUM. Click either of them to get quantity on hand (bottom left of screen) and..more importantly...quantity remaining at all other nearby home depots. No need to drive to a home depot with 0 inventory.
  9. If they do not show up, that home depot has likely sold their entire stock. If they do not show up, don't despair. See "Part 2" below.
  10. To hunt for GE LINK bulbs, return to PRICE CHECKER SEARCH and type in LINK LED. DO NOT TYPE IN GE. You will get 1-2 pages of results and if any of the A19, BR30 or 90w smart lights are in stock you'll see them on-screen along with a little yellow clearance sticker (cute huh?) Again, note quantities at other stores as well.
  11. type in 'hue iris' and if you're lucky and there is still one in stock, it will show up. If not, you'll get NO RESULTS. considering they are a penny, you will have to get lucky to find one (see pic I posted)

PART 2 - Finding the actual clearance items in the store/needle in a haystack EVEN IF NOTHING SHOWS IN COMPUTER ABOVE. Computer is not always accurate.

Because HD scatters clearance stuff all over, the computer result may or may not tell you where they are. Each Home Depot is different. Here are my strategies:

  1. Look all over lighting in the area under the ceiling fans. There are 'pockets' of clearance bulbs & stuff all over and often the GE bulbs can be found there. I found 2 GO CONTROL packages literally under the computer in lighting I was using. LOL I had no sooner found they had 2 in stock then I glanced down & there they were.
  2. Look in the "Home Automation" endcap. This has the lutrons, canaries, schlage locks, etc. and not all home depots still have this. Sometimes its gone completely or in a small area on the lighting shelf.
  3. The area ABOVE the lutron display which you can't reach without a ladder used to have lots of GE link bulbs piled up there.
  4. The area where the HUE lightbulbs are (last bay of lighting), look behind the bulbs on all shelves as well as near the HUE because again, home depot had TONS AND TONS of those GE bulbs and they can find their way to all kinds of nooks and crannies.
  5. The Clearance end caps. Usually 3-4 per store. Make sure you check these AND ESPECIALLY behind the big yellow clearance sign that hides stuff on the top shelf of the endcap.
  6. MOST IMPORTANT The customer service area has 2 corrugated metal cabinets behind it right by the exit that contains ECOBEE3s, NESTs, etc. This is the 'high end' stuff Home Depot doesn't want stolen. Its a treasure trove of abandonded WINK, Quirky, GE and GO CONTROL packages. Have them open this up and look around. I found 2 bus tubs full of GO CONTROL packages with the black plastic "security belt" around each of them.

Part 3 - FINAL CLEARANCE PRICE ADJUSTMENT

Ultimately things decrease to the final clearance price (before penny stock) over 4-5 weeks since the first clearance. You can return during this window with a product purchased, return it at customer service for a full refund, then rebuy it at the new lower price. Every home depot does this. Its not a problem. In fact the employee usually says "oh my, now I see why you are returning this".

Two comments

  1. you have to return before it becomes penny stock because they won't refund and resell the item at a penny to you.
  2. the final clearance price will have a .03 (like go control at 13.03) at the end of the price so that's how you know its as low as its going to get and you better return & rebuy it at that price right away.

Any questions?



Submitted June 09, 2016 at 03:22AM by nyvram-_- http://ift.tt/1UBoY1u homeautomation

Saturday, April 30, 2016

Help understanding all the home automation options? homeautomation

My head is spinning from all the apparent different standard/protocols for home automation. I'm moving into a new home in a few months and would like to get into home automation.

My goal is to have the lights, thermostat, garage door openers, motion detectors, and cameras all controlled by the same system. I see all these various protocols like Zigbee, Z-wave, Insteon, SmartThings, Homekit etc etc.. some devices seem to be compatible with multiple.

What would you guys recommend going with to try to unify all my home automation devices into one, but still get some of the better products/devices?

For lights, I was thinking of getting smart switches, since the house has a lot of grouped recess lighting and I still want to be able to control it in a normal switch fashion.

For thermostat, looking at Ecobee3 or Nest3.

And what about future integration for things like washer/dryer, refrigerator, spa? Are we in an early period of home automation where we have to gamble on which standard will eventually win out? Like the video media formats? Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!



Submitted May 01, 2016 at 10:01AM by Tsyndr http://ift.tt/1X0ZNdS homeautomation

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

SmartThings teasing "Big News" at 2pm PT press conference today. Any guesses as to what it's about? homeautomation

crosses fingers please be bluetooth please be bluetooth. Is this pretty unrealistic? Absolutely. Am I going to keep hoping anyways? Absolutely.

EDIT: An overall unimpressive announcement for connected appliances (refrigerator) and re-hashing their new ST-enabled Samsung TV's--which had already been announced. -_-



Submitted January 06, 2016 at 12:21AM by shamwow_jaxn http://ift.tt/1n2GKBS homeautomation

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Found this hidden behind my refrigerator homeautomation

http://ift.tt/1unyFdO



Submitted January 20, 2015 at 10:25PM by vtEB http://ift.tt/15sgPeo homeautomation

Sunday, January 11, 2015

IFTTT for my fridge. What's the best way to save money on your refrigerator? homeautomation


I read recently that fridges are one of the highest energy consumers in the average household. How could I best automate it to save money?


I have a Vera Edge and some Jasco plug-in modules currently.


I was thinking if I paired a module with two temperature sensors I could setup thresholds for power to be "on" or "off".


Does anyone have any experience with what I'm looking to do? Which sensors did you use? How much money did you save?


Thanks.







Submitted January 12, 2015 at 04:22AM by RandomMrdan http://ift.tt/1tXHtkP homeautomation