House has no power in certain spots electricians

So today I lost power in my house. Everything was working fine like it normally would, standard load on the home nothing out of the ordinary.

But later in the day roughly around 3PM est I think. The back half of my home lost power

That's

• bedroom (s)

• bathroom

• And some parts of the kitchen; stove, refrigerator and microwave and deep freezer don't work. Lights in the kitchen do work

• The basement in certain parts has no power. My dryer has no power yet the washing machine does

• My furnace has power thankfully. We live in the Midwest. And today has been rather warm

Every other part of the house has power

Now I went to my basement, where the breaker box is

Everything was flipped in the right position.

I switched everything off then back on again. What power was left in the home went out until I turned it back on.

I'm puzzled right now.

Any help?

I don't know enough to test anything. I unplugged certain things like tv

• Things I've done today. Monday 22nd.

What was wrote above was wrote yesterday.

I replaced 3 of the breakers because none were getting any power when I put my tester near them.

Today when I installed the new ones the tester showed it was getting power but the rooms are still dark.

I'm confused also I noticed water in the bottom of the breaker box. Box is in my basement

House was built in the 1960s

Submitted January 22, 2018 at 09:57PM by 586IOXNVR5 http://ift.tt/2DXqGLm electricians

House has no power in certain spots electricians

So today I lost power in my house. Everything was working fine like it normally would, standard load on the home nothing out of the ordinary.

But later in the day roughly around 3PM est I think. The back half of my home lost power

That's

• bedroom (s)

• bathroom

• And some parts of the kitchen; stove, refrigerator and microwave and deep freezer don't work. Lights in the kitchen do work

• The basement in certain parts has no power. My dryer has no power yet the washing machine does

• My furnace has power thankfully. We live in the Midwest. And today has been rather warm

Every other part of the house has power

Now I went to my basement, where the breaker box is

Everything was flipped in the right position.

I switched everything off then back on again. What power was left in the home went out until I turned it back on.

I'm puzzled right now.

Any help?

I don't know enough to test anything. I unplugged certain things like tv

• Things I've done today. Monday 22nd.

What was wrote above was wrote yesterday.

I replaced 3 of the breakers because none were getting any power when I put my tester near them.

Today when I installed the new ones the tester showed it was getting power but the rooms are still dark.

I'm confused also I noticed water in the bottom of the breaker box. Box is in my basement

House was built in the 1960s

Submitted January 22, 2018 at 09:57PM by 586IOXNVR5 http://ift.tt/2DXqGLm electricians

[Help][USA] I just moved into an apartment and the refrigerator keeps tripping the GFCI outlet. Bad fridge or bad wiring? electricians

Hi everyone. I'm renting this place, so I'll just call the landlord in the morning, but I'm just wondering what could be going wrong.

I'm my kitchen, there isn't a dedicated refrigerator outlet or breaker. There are two GFCI outlets to the left and to the right of the sink. The one to the left of the sink is daisy-chained to one non-gfci outlet on the left side of the kitchen and the one to the right of the sink is daisy-chained to 3 non-gfci outlets on the right side of the kitchen. All of the outlets in the kitchen are GFCI protected except the range hood and dishwasher. The refrigerator is plugged into a non-gfci outlet that is daisy-chained to the GFCI outlet.

When I moved in, i plugged in the refrigerator and everything was fine for about 3 hours, but then the GFCI tripped. I didn't notice right away, but when I did, it was good for another couple hours before it tripped again. This time I heard it pop and reset it instantly. It was good all throughout the night until just 10 minutes ago when it tripped again. I didn't reset it and just unplugged the fridge. I'll call the landlord when the office opens this morning.

The fridge came with the apartment. It is a Frigidaire FRT17B3AW3, and was built in May of 2003.

Is this just a bad refrigerator or is this a case of weird and dangerous wiring?

Thanks everyone for your help. I'm not an electrician and I'm not going to be attempting any repairs. I'll just have the landlord call a professional. I'm just curious what is going wrong.

Submitted December 27, 2017 at 03:42PM by nukelauncher95 http://ift.tt/2DjIX3Y electricians

HELP: Fridge Plugged In To 3 Prong Adapter Isn't Working Properly (X Posted in r/HomeImprovement electricians

Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this, or if this question (or similar) has been answered recently. I'm tired and stressed, so I'm grasping at straws.

We recently moved into an older home that we are in the process of purchasing. It was built sometime in the 30s, and most of the outlets are the old school two prong outlets (not the even the more modern two prong outlets). We were lucky enough to have friends who got a new fridge and stove as we were moving in, and they gave us their old one. There is one "new" three prong outlet in the kitchen (which had new cabinets and floors installed in the last six years, but they didn't really touch the electrical), but it is on the complete opposite side of the room from the fridge. So we slapped a three prong adapter on the fridge (stove has the dedicated weird big outlet), popped it in the two prong outlet, and didn't think a second thing of it. Except the fridge never worked right. It just barely kept stuff cool, and you could keep milk cold in the freezer without freezing it for days, but it would spoil overnight in the fridge. It was an older (-10 years) side by side that was purchased refurbished and had already gone out twice, so we just thought it was the fridge. So on Black Friday, we bought ourselves a brand spanking new fridge, plugged it in to the same adapter but different outlet, and basked in the glory that was our shiny new french door beauty. Groceries were cold and delicious.

This afternoon I noticed the freezer wasn't freezing my husband's lunchbox ice pack. Mind you, that little ice pack is the only thing that has been in the freezer since we have turned it on. I just hadn't moved anything into the freezer from the deep freeze yet. So I tossed some stuff in there thinking (perhaps incredibly stupidly) that it wasn't freezing because there wasn't more stuff in it. The ice cube trays I put in there at 5:00 have now completely thawed out. What the heck is going on?

I feel like the fan is being a little noisier than normal, but that could just be me imagining that now that I'm aware the thing isn't working properly. I turned it off and turned it back on, and switched it to the three prong plug via an extension cord (which itself is only a two prong, so I don't know that that did any good - I don't have a three prong one at the moment), and then to the three prong plug in the bathroom across the hall in case it was the room's wiring and not the plug. It still isn't freezing properly, and I feel like the fridge is getting warmer, too. Is all of this because we used a three prong adapter? Did we ruin our brand new (nauseatingly expensive) fridge? It stormed this afternoon, but I dont think we got any power surges because the clocks on the stove and toaster oven aren't flashing Please help?

I don't have any pictures.

Submitted December 06, 2017 at 10:34AM by moonoak20698 http://ift.tt/2jWLPM8 electricians

HELP: Fridge Plugged In To 3 Prong Adapter Isn't Working Properly (X Posted in r/HomeImprovement electricians

Sorry if this is the wrong place to post this, or if this question (or similar) has been answered recently. I'm tired and stressed, so I'm grasping at straws.

We recently moved into an older home that we are in the process of purchasing. It was built sometime in the 30s, and most of the outlets are the old school two prong outlets (not the even the more modern two prong outlets). We were lucky enough to have friends who got a new fridge and stove as we were moving in, and they gave us their old one. There is one "new" three prong outlet in the kitchen (which had new cabinets and floors installed in the last six years, but they didn't really touch the electrical), but it is on the complete opposite side of the room from the fridge. So we slapped a three prong adapter on the fridge (stove has the dedicated weird big outlet), popped it in the two prong outlet, and didn't think a second thing of it. Except the fridge never worked right. It just barely kept stuff cool, and you could keep milk cold in the freezer without freezing it for days, but it would spoil overnight in the fridge. It was an older (-10 years) side by side that was purchased refurbished and had already gone out twice, so we just thought it was the fridge. So on Black Friday, we bought ourselves a brand spanking new fridge, plugged it in to the same adapter but different outlet, and basked in the glory that was our shiny new french door beauty. Groceries were cold and delicious.

This afternoon I noticed the freezer wasn't freezing my husband's lunchbox ice pack. Mind you, that little ice pack is the only thing that has been in the freezer since we have turned it on. I just hadn't moved anything into the freezer from the deep freeze yet. So I tossed some stuff in there thinking (perhaps incredibly stupidly) that it wasn't freezing because there wasn't more stuff in it. The ice cube trays I put in there at 5:00 have now completely thawed out. What the heck is going on?

I feel like the fan is being a little noisier than normal, but that could just be me imagining that now that I'm aware the thing isn't working properly. I turned it off and turned it back on, and switched it to the three prong plug via an extension cord (which itself is only a two prong, so I don't know that that did any good - I don't have a three prong one at the moment), and then to the three prong plug in the bathroom across the hall in case it was the room's wiring and not the plug. It still isn't freezing properly, and I feel like the fridge is getting warmer, too. Is all of this because we used a three prong adapter? Did we ruin our brand new (nauseatingly expensive) fridge? It stormed this afternoon, but I dont think we got any power surges because the clocks on the stove and toaster oven aren't flashing Please help?

I don't have any pictures.

Submitted December 06, 2017 at 10:34AM by moonoak20698 http://ift.tt/2jWLPM8 electricians

Toaster killed an outlet, but the GFI isn't tripping... electricians

You know when you find yourself on the verge of answering a conundrum, but your brain can't make the final leap in the dark? That's where I'm at right now with a kitchen outlet.

A year ago we rewired the kitchen outlets to 2 new breakers. The refrigerator and microwave went to their own breaker, and on the second breaker, I installed a GFI to the left of the sink for a new line around the kitchen that allowed us to add two new outlets. Recently, the outlet at the end of the line decided to stop working with our family toaster, and for that matter anything else. The other three outlets up the line were working. Since my voltage sensor detected current I switched out the outlet for a new one. After turning the breaker back on, I checked the GFI outlet and noticed it had now tripped, so after resetting it the toaster outlet worked...momentarily. I switched the breaker off and on again, and now it's working.

So, here's where I'm stumped. (Diagram for reference. Breaker and GFI are a 20A, other down the line outlets are 15A.)

• The GFI outlet has an under-cabinet radio and coffee machine plugged in (which is turned off).
• "Sink Right" currently has an operating crock pot plugged in.
• "Counter" is clear
• "Stove Right" now has the toaster plugged in, and is working fine after a few tests.

Something tells me the GFI is the problem since I didn't find an open neutral in the connection to the "Counter" outlet. However, the GFI's self-test light is green and is not tripping after I initially changed the outlets.

I'm going to continue to monitor this outlet, but I'm at a loss for what the problem could be. If the information I've given is too confusing, please let me know. If more info is needed, I'll add what I can. Any insight is appreciated.

Submitted December 03, 2017 at 03:01AM by huanthewolfhound http://ift.tt/2Aq6O1K electricians

Does such a thing exist? electricians

I'm looking for a device that can be inserted between an electrical outlet and say a refrigerator to monitor the amount of voltage the fridge gets and sound an alarm if voltage drops below a certain point or ceases altogether. My wife says this exists but doesn't know the name of it

Submitted November 30, 2017 at 03:30AM by Soundtrackzz http://ift.tt/2Ao25ju electricians

Electricians! Wondering if anyone can help me solve this furnace puzzle. electricians

I am a novice, and enjoy learning, which is why I am hoping to get some help! In USA Ohio. Camper was made in 2008 in michigan.

The ground wire of the LP Propane furnace controls keeps burning up (when the furnace is off). I've owned the camper for months and this has just started happening recently.

When it burnt up the first time, I replaced the wires and control board, and fired it up. worked great for a few days no problems.... then Last night (while not in use) i caught it in the act again. I smelled burning and went back to see the ground wire RED HOT. leading from the camper to the furnace. Insulation burnt off, and melting everything it was touching.

I have a Suburban NT16-SE Furnace in my truck camper. This camper sits in the bed of my truck with a thick rubber mat underneath it.

It has a solar panel that leads to a regulator and voltage meter that charges a deep cycle battery. The battery then runs to the appliances.

The previous owner removed a refrigerator but i dont think its related to my issue

Here are the attached photos. With descriptions.

http://ift.tt/2yvHjKH

Happy to provide more information!

Submitted November 13, 2017 at 03:12AM by IronicFrenchMustache http://ift.tt/2yUZrBW electricians

A mystery to solve: capacitor circuit killing my appliances? electricians

I had an electrician in in May for something unrelated, and when he was looking at the electrical panel, he noticed a sub panel with two large (soda can) sized capacitors that were feeding from/to a breaker on the main panel. For reasons that don't matter, we decided to turn that breaker off to “see if anything happened” so that I could decide later if I wanted to use that breaker slot (and another open slot) to bring 220v service into my garage to charge my electric car.

Fast forward to now: in the past 6 weeks, we’ve had our microwave AND our refrigerator experience inverter board failures. Our appliance repair man says that the inverter board is a pretty common failure point, and although two appliance inverter board failure are rare, it’s not super-rare. My question is — is it possible that turning off the capacitors to the main panel is doing something to cause inconsistent voltage service to these appliances, and causing the boards to fail? Perhaps a previous homeowner used this capacitor panel to fix some voltage issue that I don't know about, and now that they're off, the problem is back?

And if so (or if maybe), is it safe for me to flip the breaker back on on those capacitors, even though they’ve been unhooked (and maybe discharged) since May? Don't want to risk a fire or malfunction - those capacitors look fierce.

Submitted November 04, 2017 at 05:18AM by jtrope http://ift.tt/2ytcOJy electricians

Trying to Identify Old Refrigerator Parts electricians

http://ift.tt/2gByOtV

Submitted October 23, 2017 at 04:13AM by KyleTheDiabetic http://ift.tt/2hXpKfn electricians

[Question] Does a new fridge require a exclusive 20A breaker line? electricians

I bought a house that was built in 1997, and bought a brand new KitchenAid fridge model krmf706ebs. After 1.5 months the ice maker stopped working, after 6 technicians exchanging various parts, including ice maker sensors, water dispenser control board, air circulation fans, and lastly the control board for this fridge. Whirlpool is now requiring me to have an electrician come out and install a 15-20A exclusive line to it, claiming that they've ran all the diagnostics on the fridge, all comes back green and the "noise" on the power line is the only possible thing that prevents this to work correctly. I looked at my breaker board, and saw that my kitchen has at least 3 (I can't remember if the food dispenser is in a separate circuit) 20A breakers, 2 small appliances, 1 for the microwave. The fridge shares the same circuit as 3 outlets and the gas range. After I looked at the board, I've been calling bullshit on their assessment, specially since the owner's manual (page 12) says it is only recommended for it to be on a exclusive circuit.

Am I right to call them on their bullshit? What are your suggestions?

I currently don't have the money to hire an electrician to do the job they are asking me to.

From what I can see I have a few options:

1 - Go to war with them and their bullshit assessment 2 - Buy a power line filter/surge protector (cheapest) 3 - Get an electrician to come out and give me a report calling them out on their bullshit, or saying they are actually right 4 - Just find money to do the job and bite the bullet.

Energy Guide: http://ift.tt/2xCVdxh Owner's Manual: http://ift.tt/2fEKBXU

Exert from the Electrical Requirements section: Before you move your refrigerator into its final location, it is important to make sure you have the proper electrical connection. Recommended Grounding Method A 115-volt, 60 Hz, AC-only 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate circuit serving only your refrigerator and approved accessories be provided. Use an outlet that cannot be turned off by a switch. Do not use an extension cord. NOTE: Before performing any type of installation, cleaning, or removing a light bulb, turn off Cooling, and then disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical source. When you have finished, reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical source and turn on Cooling. See “Using the Control(s).”

Submitted September 30, 2017 at 12:42AM by vinchbr http://ift.tt/2xFloDs electricians

1 month old refrigerator pops GFCI instantly. electricians

Trying to figure out what the issue is. The refrigerator runs fine when plugged into a normal outlet but when plugged into any GFCI it trips the GFCI immediately.

The refrigerator is still under warranty. Just not sure if this is something that is common with refrigerators or an actual issue.

Submitted September 16, 2017 at 04:17AM by shitishouldntsay http://ift.tt/2y3ZpCY electricians

Can anyone help me with a load calculation for my home? I am in Ohio in the US. electricians

I am looking at my options for my electrical panel and trying to determine the feasability of adding a subpanel in my garage. My initial information tells me that my panel, rated for 125 amps, is essentially maxed out if not overloaded, and cannot support the added load as is, but I want to verify.

home is 1600 sq. feet. (800 above grade, 800 in finished basement) electric dryer electric stove\oven gas water heater washing machine standard refrigerator\freezer 2 bathrooms 2 bedrooms Espresso machine (pulls about 12 amps at 110) large space heater (12 amps at 110) Central A\C (30 amps 220v breaker, not sure of actual draw)

What other info do you need to calculate this?

My longer-term backup plan is to swap out the range\oven for gas, and swap that circuit to feed a small garage panel.

Submitted September 13, 2017 at 05:07PM by imagreatlistener http://ift.tt/2x0OEDI electricians

Hurricane Irma prep: How long of extension cord(s) can I use for my fridge from my generator (specs provided) electricians

Any help is appreciated. Hurricane Irma is about to smash us in Florida. Luckily we were able to buy a new generator. It's a Storm Responder Briggs and Stratton 6250 running/8500 starting genset. The only info I could get off our Samsung fridge model RF263BEAESR/AA is that it's 15amp/120v. I've been reading refrigerators (not particularly mine) need about 1200 watts to start but then will only draw about 350 to run. I assume my gen has plenty to run the fridge, a small radio and a few fans.

My question is, how long of an extension cord can I run without melting it? I have 2 x 50ft standard extension cords from HD that I've had for years. I assume they need to be a certain awg to hook them together (making a 100ft cable) and not melt them. I can't get my gen any closer to my fridge. So would these two cables be okay to hook together and run my fridge?

Thanks again for any answers. Just trying to be more prepared for when the power goes out.

Submitted September 10, 2017 at 06:34AM by DCar777 http://ift.tt/2eVWpVg electricians

Question/Advice to New Homeowner electricians

Hi All,

I need some general advice on getting an electrician out to the house.

We moved into our new home back at the beginning of the summer, but have been blowing a ton of fuses. There is no rhyme or reason as to why this has been occurring. At least, I can’t pinpoint it exactly. We have a home warranty and got an electrician out to the house. He took a look around the house and checked out some of the wires, but told us there wasn’t anything he could do because we didn’t know what could be tripping the fuses. Our house was torn to the studs and rebuilt. The electrician said the wiring looked great, and he couldn’t see any issues that were visible.

So, that was a while ago, and we are still regularly blowing fuses. We still can’t pinpoint exactly how its happening. We often come home with the kitchen (stove, microwave, GFCI switches) not working. The only thing I can think of is either the air conditioning coming on, or maybe the refrigerator?

I don’t want to call out an electrician just to be told the wiring looks great and we just need to keep an eye out on what might cause us to blow a fuse. I am in our circuit breaker at least twice a week reseting them.

What can I do as a homeowner to plan ahead of this visit? What should I be looking for in terms where things are plugged in? What can I do to be better prepared? I apologize for the generic post with limited information. I do have pictures of our circuit breaker. I’m just not sure what information I need to provide to the electrician.

Submitted September 07, 2017 at 08:33PM by throwawayfortix http://ift.tt/2gLckCL electricians

Breaker box wiring in apartment electricians

Hi everyone, I moved into a new apartment and landlord gave me permission to update a light fixture in the kitchen. When doing that I decided to label the breaker box for my apartment since it had no labels. While doing so I noticed something that seemed wrong. Let me explain. So the first "switch" in the breaker box is a 20amp one turns off/on power for all the countertop outlets in the kitchen (microwave, oven, blender and stove). Second switch is a 20amp turns off power for the refrigerator and that's it. The other switch is a 15 amp turns off all the power in the bedrooms, I have 3 bedrooms, except one outlet in the Master. Another 15 amp switch doesn't turn off anything. Then the other 15 amp turns off 3 outlets in the kitchen, one of which is being used by my window air conditioner, turns off the kitchen ceiling lights, hallway light, Master Bathroom light and outlet, three living room outlets and living room ceiling light. As well as an outlet in the master bedroom. The last switch is a 30 amp switch that turns off the rest of the power in the living room, including a in wall air conditioner, 3 outlets and power in the second bathroom. What concerns me is that switch that turns off nothing and that switch that turns off basically most of the apartment. I know bathrooms are supposed to have 20 amp switches in the breaker box but one bathroom is powered by a 15 amp one and the another one is by a 30 amp one. The house was built in 1989. Like I said I'm also a renter. Should I be concerned? Additionally, I'm sorry if the terminology I used is incorrect. Here's a picture of my breaker box too if it helps explain visually what I'm talking about: http://ift.tt/2gyw6ot

Submitted September 02, 2017 at 05:02AM by ahleahsis http://ift.tt/2eN3G6D electricians

Garage GFCI circuit tripping, could you guys give me a good idea why? electricians

OK, so right off the bat I'm going to say this: I've got too much shit in my garage. So I'm looking for a temporary solution, but I know the permanent solution is to get another dedicated circuit installed. I've got a rudimentary understanding of this stuff, but just enough to be dangerous, so I'm turning to the experts here.

In my garage, I have a small chest freezer (5.5 cubic feet) in addition to a standard full size refrigerator (which is honestly pretty old). Different outlets, but the same circuit. I'm aware that having both of these is probably pushing it, but things have been fine for a few weeks (and they were fine for about 3 or 4 months last year when I had this fridge and an upright freezer plugged in). Probably because I've never done much in the garage in the way of using tools. The freezer is plugged into a GFCI outlet, but the rest of the outlets are regular outlets.

Today I used my miter saw, plugged into a third outlet in the garage (still the same circuit). It was fine for an hour or so, but eventually the circuit tripped. Fine, I moved the miter saw outside to a different circuit, but the GFCI outlet is still tripping when I plug the fridge in.

I'm aware the best course of action is to get an electrician out here to install a dedicated outlet for the fridge on it's own circuit, but that's not happening for a bit. Short of that, I'm wondering what to do. Will things return to normal after a sort of cool down period and I can plug the fridge back in and be OK as long as I don't use any power tools? could the fridge just be on it's last legs? Do I need to just bite the bullet and get a dedicated outlet installed?

Thanks a lot for any help you can give me.

Submitted August 18, 2017 at 02:58AM by Dandw12786 http://ift.tt/2vHrbGQ electricians

The beginning of our new refrigerator runs. electricians

http://ift.tt/2w9YZOm

Submitted August 16, 2017 at 06:42PM by shuazien http://ift.tt/2wfecgh electricians

[TX] All electric appliances reset/stopped working electricians

Hey there, my family and I just noticed this today at our house. It seemed like all of the appliances at our home had either been reset or they stopped working at their normal state. Keep in mind, we didn't never had any sort of power outage in the last few months:

• Our Ring Doorbell's sensitivity was reset
• Our refrigerator is still on, but it is no longer cooling the food and everything became spoiled
• The power setting on the microwave spiked to the max, but it was never altered nor did the microwave ever turn off
• There was a burning smell coming from the dishwasher
• The A/C in our house isn't cooling anymore. The monitor says the A/C is on but the temperature is either rising or staying at the same level
• There was a somewhat burning smell coming from the oven as well when we used it earlier this week.

Is there anything we can pinpoint this issue towards? At first we only thought it was a single problem with our refrigerator, but after recognizing the fact that all of the appliances plugged in at home are acting strange, I presume it's some electric issue.

Our location is from Texas.

Edit: Formatting

Submitted August 12, 2017 at 06:14AM by darktitans http://ift.tt/2vXbaxS electricians

Water damage and no power electricians

My dumbass fell asleep earlier tonight while I was filling a 5-gallon bucket of water on my kitchen counter for my aquarium. I woke up about 4 hours later to find my kitchen floor with somewhere under a centimeter-deep of water. I have a door to my basement in the kitchen, so water mostly flowed down the stairs to the concrete flooring there. In the basement, water reached maybe the first third before I caught it, and I'd say theee was maybe half of a centimeter of water in that spot. Looking at the walls, you can see some streaks of wetness running down, and yes, some are near power outlets. When I found out about this, I obviously turned off the sink and dried things up as well as I could. That being said, I had no power in the basement but had power in the rest of the house. When I looked at the circuit breaker, a double switch for the main, and one for freezer (I believe the basement refrigerator but it may be for the kitchen one) were off. I flipped on the freezer one and things stayed quiet, but when I flipped the main switch, the circuit breaker sparked up and I lost power to the whole house (and I believe at this point several other switches turned off but they may have been overlooked before. I tried playing with the switches and still nothing. Since all of this happened in the middle of the night, my plan was to open windows and cabinets and unplug any outlets that may have gotten wet, and let it dry (fortunately I live in a dry area). I live on property where I work so I guess I'll bite the bullet and ask the maintenance mechanic to look at it tomorrow at the risk of presenting my ineptitude to my coworkers. Is there anything else I should be doing that I haven't thought of? Thanks a ton for your help.

Submitted August 11, 2017 at 04:52PM by salty_freedom_fries http://ift.tt/2vtvEuY electricians