Take the Extended Warranty on a Used RV? GoRVing

Greetings, all. Could some of you experienced RVers could share with my wife and I the benefit of your experience with taking (or refusing) an extended warranty on your RV? Having camped our way over the years through several canvas condos, a popup, and a travel trailer, we've just purchased our first RV: a 2015 Navion IQ 24G. We can't wait to hit the road. But first...

The Navion looks to have been very well cared-for, and it's got enough miles (about 16k) for any manufacturing defects/early failures to have been addressed. We're still covered by the original Winnebago and/or Mercedes chassis and drive train warranties, but we're looking at taking a 60 month/60,000 mile extended warranty.

We generally refuse these on anything else we've purchased, but the idea of a major un-covered RV problem - a generator or refrigerator failure, for instance - is more than a little disconcerting.

The policy were considering is CornerStone RV's Ultimate, with a $250 deductible for around $2,700. There's very little that's not covered - mostly consumables, tires/wheels, and the exhaust system.

So, what do you think? The benefit of your experience will be much appreciated - many thanks in advance.

Submitted December 04, 2017 at 07:35AM by sluggo4511 http://ift.tt/2jc54Sr GoRVing

Aftermarket Fridge Thermostat? GoRVing

The refrigerator in my RV is so cold it is freezing food in the fridge compartment (had to let my chicken salad thaw out this morning before I could eat it).

This was not an issue during the summer, but as it gets colder, I have to turn it completely off for a few hours a day.

Anyone know of an aftermarket thermostat that will monitor the temperature and turn it off/on accordingly? It is a Domatic, if that helps...

Submitted October 29, 2017 at 01:45PM by HB24 http://ift.tt/2zY01M8 GoRVing

Winterizing trailer - Keeping critters out of access panels GoRVing

Last weekend I went through the fun of winterizing our trailer. I think I've got all the usual stuff covered but I'm considering taking it a step further.
We bought it used this summer and it had been reasonably well taken care of by the previous owners and stored at an outdoor facility. Before our first trip I went through and pulled off the various access panels on the outside. I vacuumed out a pretty significant pile of acorn shells and shredded debris inside the panel behind the refrigerator. Something had made a decent home for itself in there.

I was thinking of getting a roll of plastic sheeting like painters use and basically wrapping it around the panel before locking it in place. That would completely seal the louvered area from insects and critters so hopefully next year I won't find a yellow jacket nest or squirrel home in there. I was going to do the same for the panels at the furnace and the water heater. Is it at all common to completely seal these panels for winter storage? Any other tips for keeping critters out of there?

Submitted October 27, 2017 at 09:13PM by plastrd1 http://ift.tt/2gHz0UH GoRVing

RV Refrigerators Buyer's Guide and Reviews GoRVing

http://ift.tt/2xPPo0x

Submitted October 19, 2017 at 04:10AM by rvtravellr http://ift.tt/2kZ0kD6 GoRVing

Preferred roof goo, winter slide-out, and electrical questions GoRVing

Benevolent RV'ers! I am the new owner of a 2012 Timber Ridge 280RKS, my first travel trailer. I work from home and no matter where I tried to hide the littles always found me, so parked on the side of my house, this serves as my office, and it works great. I have a few questions for you veteran owners out there.

• I need to make a few repairs to my roof. I've read about Eternabond tape, lap sealant, and silicone caulk. I present the following pictures for evidence. What I'm most concerned with is the top-rear-left corner. You can see a considerable gap. There is a metal band that runs across the top of the rear panel that is screwed in every few inches or so. The right side has a screw 3/4" from the end of the band. The left side, with the gap, has the last screw ~3" from the end, which is why I think the gap formed originally. What type of sealant does it look like was used before? Should I remove the sealant and put a self tapping screw in at the end and then seal it? For this joint, what is the preferred sealant type?
• The other seals on the roof look OK to me, but again I don't know what type of sealant was used, and if for good measure I should remove what is there and put fresh sealant on.
• The skylight has developed some cracks, how do I best handle this?

I have a slide out that pretty much needs to be open in order to use the trailer. Closed it blocks the refrigerator, furnace, and leaves no room to walk. I live at 5500ft in the beautiful mountains of Utah, and I'm concerned with snow/ice and the slide out. I can brace up the bottom of the slide out to relieve the weight of it somewhat, and cut some styrofoam or other to place underneath the topper to fill the triangular void and support it, but I read everywhere that it's just best to have the slide-outs in during winter, not to mention I should have the whole thing properly covered. I don't know if I could work out here with it closed all the time. It will regularly go from 20° to -15° during January and February, and snow is common. Because of the equipment inside, I'll keep it heated to 50° when I'm not in it. Lot's of propane I'm guessing. How does one daily use a trailer in winter?

When I first bought it, the lights in the slide out worked great, now they don't work at all. All fuses are good, but I'm getting ~1.7v at the fixtures instead of the 12v that should be there. Do I just go fishing behind the power distribution unit for loose connections?

Sorry for all the questions, I greatly appreciate your help!

Submitted September 16, 2017 at 01:15AM by doubledundercoder http://ift.tt/2h7b4dm GoRVing

Having trouble with fridge GoRVing

2002 Kiwi Too 23b, went camping a couple months ago and had a very bad/non-level spot and couldn't get totally level. Refrigerator worked when we left and for the first few hours at the campground. Getting ready for another trip, have the camped (30 amp) plugged in for several hours and the bottom of the freezer is cool but the whole unit is not getting cold.

Is there something I need to do to reset the unit or do you think it just crapped out on its own for being 15 years old.

Submitted September 15, 2017 at 05:06PM by VeryPunnyName http://ift.tt/2x7CkSd GoRVing

Dometic RM2804 Operation Help Please GoRVing

I need some help with the operation of a Dometic RM2804 refrigerator in our newly acquired '92 Pace arrow. We've only had it a few weeks and I'm confusing myself.

I understand that when I'm on shore power, the fridge is operating off of 110VAC. It gets plenty cold. I have not been able to run it for any length of time on propane, due to a leak in the propane system I am having trouble tracking down, BUT I know it works on propane.

My question is regarding 12V operation. When I'm driving, I know it isn't running on 110VAC. When I start the engine and drive, is it running on 12VDC? I know when I stop, it should switch over to propane automatically (if I didn't have a leak), or to shore power.

Do I have that right? Is there anything I have to do to make it switch from 110VAC to 12VDC while driving? Or, is it even operating on 12VDC, and I have mis-remembered something?

Submitted May 29, 2017 at 10:44PM by johnnypaper http://ift.tt/2rOpyWO GoRVing

Fridge help GoRVing

Getting geared up for the weekend and cannot get the fridge to function on shore power. Anyone have a troubleshooting flowchart?

2-Way Refrigerator, 4.0 Cu. Ft. I cant remember the brand maybe Norcold? I was reading the manual last night but its not very specific and I was hoping for something more technical.

Trailer 12 volt and 110 systems are OK. Fridge LED readout has power, I did get the LP to lite the pilot but I have to check if it did cool down. But my concern is it will not work on AC, shore power. Several attempts without luck.

Submitted May 25, 2017 at 06:45PM by ronin__9 http://ift.tt/2r0lphw GoRVing

Any Feed Back on Thor Motor Coaches? Looking to drive cross country. GoRVing

Always had a trailer for camping. Now looking more at a RV not just for camping but more to drive cross country. Want to spend more time on the road than at the camp ground. So I want something easy to drive.

So I am thinking in the 30 to 32 ft range and have been looking at the Thor brand. Like their Class C Chateau 30D http://ift.tt/2nsdzb6

I also like their Hurricane line. http://ift.tt/2mZXHBe

Any feed back on these or maybe a similar brand in this price range/size?

Three things are important to me:

First easy of driving.

Second I want a back bedroom the closes off so the kids in the front are separate.

Third I want the shower in the bathroom. Not a fan of hallway showers.

Any feed back would be great as we make the jump into RV cross country driving.

One last question. I see a lot of residential refrigerators now. Do these also run off of gas? Or do you need to run the generator to have them work? Love the idea of a fridge as we travel.

Submitted April 02, 2017 at 06:40AM by thatman33 http://ift.tt/2nsiqcj GoRVing

Need help making a decision on a generator GoRVing

I've narrowed the choices down to this...

1. YAMAHA EF4500ISE 4500 WATT, 30 AMP, INVERTER GENERATOR
2. 5500 WATT ONAN GENERATOR, 50 AMP

So, I'm buying a toy hauler from ATC. They offer to include the Onan for $5,556.00. However, this generator is mounted outside the trailer, behind the propane tanks. See photo: http://ift.tt/2mIpguC

ATC does not lock the generator into place. It has a cover that latches, but does not lock. So, it seems that anyone could steal it.

The Yamaha 4500 Watt Inverter Generator costs $3,300 from Amazon.

It can be stored inside the trailer, and it runs more quietly than the Onan. However, the Yamaha offers only a 30 AMP outlet, whereas the Onan offers 50 AMP.

So there's my choices. I feel safer with the Yamaha stored inside the trailer, and I like that it runs more quietly. But I think the Onan will deliver enough power to keep my wife happy with the AC, refrigerator, microwave, and television all going at once.

What do you think?

Submitted March 01, 2017 at 07:52AM by steve31266 http://ift.tt/2l9ydjX GoRVing

Another can you review my solar setup question. GoRVing

Hey guys, progress is finally underway on our rebuild of a 69 streamliner princess, and I need to order our solar components soon.

I have been reading about solar and DC setups till my eyes bleed and I just want to have someone tell me if I picked the right stuff and my camper won't burn to the ground.

-Looking at 2 HQST 100w 12v panels wired with MC4 Y connector which should if I am not mistaken give me about 16 amps and 12v going to my charge controllers.

-10awg pre made MC4 10ft connectors going to the controller.

-This morningstar 30amp MSST controller: http://ift.tt/2my7wBN (Would love to know if this is a good choice. I have read that MSST is better but the price of PWM is nice and it sounds like 30 amps is overkill for us but I can't find a good 20amp MSST)

-8awg tray connectors from the charge controller to the batteries, hoping to have the batteries stored about 3 feet from the controller. I've read that keeping this distance as small as possible is helpful.

-2x Costco 6v deep cycle lead acid golf cart batteries wired in series. Hoping to get about 210ish amp hours at 12v

-Possibly an inverter, but likely just keeping everything 12v DC

-Hoping to power about 40 feet of LED light strips, 2 laptops, cell phone chargers, pocket laser projector, and possibly a refrigerator of some kind.

-Holy crap RV refrigerators are a pain to figure out. First off will our setup handle a fridge? And if so what kind? I've been looking at a 12v whynter but it's pricey, and I don't even know if we could handle it. Would we be okay getting a 1000w inverter and going with a normal mini fridge?

I am hoping to avoid shore power all together and just have the camper 100% solar. Is this realistic with this setup? We do have a nice 2000watt quiet generator that will travel with us for emergencies.

Submitted February 26, 2017 at 11:50AM by joergonix http://ift.tt/2mEFEfw GoRVing

Level Refrigerators? GoRVing

If RV 'fridges need to be level to operate on propane, why aren't the innards that matter on gimbles? I wanna know.

Submitted January 29, 2017 at 09:54AM by regnillub http://ift.tt/2jDiGqo GoRVing

Need help with propane refrigerator.. GoRVing

http://ift.tt/2iFGwSg

Submitted January 05, 2017 at 10:42PM by vinelife420 http://ift.tt/2hVtsEw GoRVing

Advice on living in a RV GoRVing

TL;DR

I am looking for any and all advice to living in a RV including what kind of RV to buy / avoid, RV Park red / green flags, and generally what it's like.

---

Background

I am a 30-something, single male with a well-paying job living in a very expensive area. (Note: Many people can probably deduce where I am living / what I do / more. I am being open here to get the most detailed, helpful advice possible. Unless you believe it's important to giving me advice, please refrain from mentioning what you have figured out, even if it seems obvious.)

My Idea

Rather than paying >$2,000 per month for an apartment, I am considering purchasing a size-able (~40 ft.) RV to live in. I am looking in the $200,000 - $300,000 range, e.g. Journey, Meridian, or Forza. (I only know of Winnebago as an RV manufacturer. I am 100% open to others.)

This is, first and foremost, well-aligned with how I want to live. I have lived in 500 sq. ft. apartments and been very happy, and I am a bit of a rolling stone. I don't really plan on driving the RV, but I love the idea that I could.

Secondarily, this is a money-saving venture. My thought is that I couldn't buy a home in this area for another 5 years at the absolute soonest. So, that's 5 years of rent at, at least, $2,200 / month. That's, at least, $132,000, and my rent will likely increase by 5% - 10% each year, meaning we are talking about nearly $150,000 over 5 years, that then becomes a mortgage for a house. Comparing that to a $250,000 loan and using 8 years for the duration, I am looking at $3,100 per month (+ the cost to rent a space); after those 8 years, I will actually own something.

I understand that I am not comparing apples to apples here, e.g. 5 vs 8 years, homes appreciate whereas RV's don't, etc., but I still feel like there is a net win here as I will likely have something of value sooner rather than later. Although, part of this post is to determine hidden costs and to be educated, so feel free to set me straight.

Questions:

• (Rather than fight about why Winnebago is good or bad) Are there any other manufacturers that you recommend?
• What kind of maintenance is there?
• How do you get internet, e.g. Broadband through a carrier, satellite, something else?
• I recently drove through a RV Park and believe I saw hookups for electricity, hot/cold water, and sewage.
  • Do most RV Parks have these?
  • Do I need anything else? / Am I forgetting something?
  • Is the cost of these included in the monthly rental cost or is their usage extra?
• [Meta Question]: Are they called "RV Park"s?
• How much should I expect to pay per month for a spot? (This is likely hard without knowing where I live, so feel free to give extremes.)
• Most of the RV models I have been looking at have heavy things like the refrigerator on the part that extends out.
  • I have heard that this is an engineering no-no.
  • If that's the case, then why are big names like Winnebago still doing it?
  • Was I given bad advice or is there some truth to it?
  • Is it only an engineering no-no if it's extended for a long period of time?
• For those that are doing / have done this, thoughts? Do you recommend it?
• How should I handle insurance?
  • I won't ever drive it, or, once I start driving it, I will re-evaluate insurance.
  • Do I need Auto insurance or home-owner's insurance or something else?

Thanks ahead of time!

Submitted January 03, 2017 at 04:55AM by CoooookieCrisp http://ift.tt/2j1J4vc GoRVing

How badly did I screw up? GoRVing

I brought my travel trailer home to prep for a trip and have it parked on the street so it is not level. I turned on the fridge about 24 hours ago not forgetting about it not being level. It is very cold where I am right now so I can't really tell if it is cooling or not. Say worst case scenario, it was not cooling because of the leveling for about 24 hours. In the amount of time, could the fridge be a goner? This is the fridge I have. Thanks!

Submitted December 19, 2016 at 07:02AM by WanderlustyStillness http://ift.tt/2hP6Rur GoRVing

In the cold darkness GoRVing

I sit here in the darkness of my RV (30' travel trailer ) the cold approaches. Shore power has been out since Saturday night. We were merely watching TV and warming dinner in the microwave with a couple lights on. Nothing unusual or taxing to the electrical system. Something somewhere popped and blew. Yet none of my circuit breakers tripped. I'm the only trailer in the park. It is a bit of an unusual situation. But it is comfortable and a gated community. Moving my cord to other power poles proved no better as with the landlords help a breaker on his side was tripped. All of the receptacle boxes seem to be in poor condition anyway, old. So he put in a new box for me and we put on the new trailer cap. This is weird my trailer is 110, yet the cord and all the receptacles in the park or wired using what appears to be a 220 connector. I replaced one tandem breaker but cannot find 30 15 tandem breaker locally to replace my main. But it does not seem to be malfunctioning. A local electrical engineer verified power to the pole and power inside my circuit box Sunday but there's no power to my outlets or appliances for an unknown reason. I'm sitting in the dark because I can conserve a little battery power as the inverter is running the refrigerator from the battery back up. I actually have lights but did not need one at this moment. Hopefully a little electrician I called today will be able to arrive in the morning and fix things. But everyone is really stumped at what the problem is. If I recall correctly this is a 2009 model and on the side of the trailer it says sunset trails crossroads. Hopefully this is not a model loan for spontaneous combustion from electrical issues. Yes I should probably replace the breaker box full of tandem breakers with the real breaker box. But that's not gonna happen anytime soon. Any ideas what the heck is going on, at this point speculation or Voice of experience is welcome as it really looks like we should have power.

Submitted November 29, 2016 at 05:04AM by elf25 http://ift.tt/2fv3Thc GoRVing

What Should I Be Looking For? GoRVing

I'm not sure what exactly my next steps are. I'd much rather get an older Class B RV with many of my requirements, but I'd be willing to put in a lot of work and do a full conversion with a van or box truck. Ideally I can find something in the middle and upgrade myself.

Requirements:

• For Class B or Van, $30k or under total budget
• Be able to get to living area from driver/passenger area
• 6'0 person can stand upright when cooking
• Bed for 2 people (57"W+x77"L+) with enough height for sexy times
• Space for 2 people to sit to eat or work on a laptop
• AC/heat (expect temperature ranges to be 20-100F)...won't likely go anywhere extremely cold
• At least 1 window in back
• Exhaust fan
• Flushable toilet
• Shower
• Kitchen sink
• Gray/black water tank
• Refrigerator
• Microwave
• Stove/burner
• Water and shore power electrical hookup
• Better than 12 MPG
• Under 20.5' long
• Fully insurable

Nice To Haves:

• Will paint totally gray or white
• Look somewhat industrial for stealth
• 4x4 (not AWD)
• Outdoor shower if real dirty or for dishes
• Front seats swivel
• Solar (Don't really care about generator)
• Ability for car to power batteries
• Small oven
• Slim tall fridge/freezer
• Space under bed for storage ideally in back
• Two doors on back to access storage and bed in back raised up

I guess I'm just looking for some thoughts on:

• Specific year/models so I save searches for on CL and ebay?
• Other websites besides RV trader to keep an eye open?
• Any recommendation for people that are good with spec'ing/designing upgrades/conversions?
• If you feel really strongly that I need a trailer RV (I have a 2005 Silverado 1500) due to my budget I guess I'd be willing to consider it...what brands are worth looking for?

Thanks everyone!

Submitted November 17, 2016 at 04:35AM by scottymtp http://ift.tt/2g03roy GoRVing

What Should I Be Looking For? GoRVing

I'm not sure what exactly my next steps are. I'd much rather get an older Class B RV with many of my requirements, but I'd be willing to put in a lot of work and do a full conversion with a van or box truck. Ideally I can find something in the middle and upgrade myself.

Requirements:

• For Class B or Van, $30k or under total budget
• Be able to get to living area from driver/passenger area
• 6'0 person can stand upright when cooking
• Bed for 2 people (57"W+x77"L+) with enough height for sexy times
• Space for 2 people to sit to eat or work on a laptop
• AC/heat (expect temperature ranges to be 20-100F)...won't likely go anywhere extremely cold
• At least 1 window in back
• Exhaust fan
• Flushable toilet
• Shower
• Kitchen sink
• Gray/black water tank
• Refrigerator
• Microwave
• Stove/burner
• Water and shore power electrical hookup
• Better than 12 MPG
• Under 20.5' long
• Fully insurable

Nice To Haves:

• Will paint totally gray or white
• Look somewhat industrial for stealth
• 4x4 (not AWD)
• Outdoor shower if real dirty or for dishes
• Front seats swivel
• Solar (Don't really care about generator)
• Ability for car to power batteries
• Small oven
• Slim tall fridge/freezer
• Space under bed for storage ideally in back
• Two doors on back to access storage and bed in back raised up

I guess I'm just looking for some thoughts on:

• Specific year/models so I save searches for on CL and ebay?
• Other websites besides RV trader to keep an eye open?
• Any recommendation for people that are good with spec'ing/designing upgrades/conversions?
• If you feel really strongly that I need a trailer RV (I have a 2005 Silverado 1500) due to my budget I guess I'd be willing to consider it...what brands are worth looking for?

Thanks everyone!

Submitted November 17, 2016 at 04:35AM by scottymtp http://ift.tt/2g03roy GoRVing

Need some advice on RV Hot Water Heater. Thanks! GoRVing

Hello fellow travellers. Has anyone tried to upgrade the factory propane/electric hot water heater in their RV to a tankless?

We recently upgraded to a diesel (slightly used) and the former owner (from Vermont) must have let the hot water heater freeze in the winter. He then added a bypass line so we have great water pressure but....just no hot water. The existing is an Attwood 10 gallon gas and electric unit. We priced it out and we can get a refurbished one for $325. New they are $579.

However, we know a lot of the newer and big rigs are coming standard with tankless. The Attwood RV tankless runs about $700+. However we did online research and keep seeing this Rheem model being suggested: http://ift.tt/2elcaC4

We run on 50 amps. So we were concerned with this using up to 40 amps...is that correct? We have already taken out the factory refrigerator and replaced it with a standard house fridge. So we don't use propane there. Also our motorhome has the optional heat pumps that work until 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Only below that temperature does the propane kick on. We hate the cold and I doubt we will be in weather that cold for the foreseeable future.

So ideally we would love to get on as many electric appliances. My question is: has anyone upgraded to a tankless electric water heater in their RV and what has your experience been? Have you experienced any problems with your power running the hot water heater and 1 or 2 AC units and an electric refrigerator?

It is only my husband I travelling usually. So we only need hot water for showers and doing the dishes. I usually wash our clothes in the Splendide in cold/warm water, never on hot.

Thank you so very much in advance for your help/suggestions.

Submitted November 02, 2016 at 04:41AM by Bellababeala http://ift.tt/2fsVQ4Q GoRVing

Norcold RV Refrigerators, Parts, and Free Troubleshooting! GoRVing

http://ift.tt/2dqANyL

Submitted September 28, 2016 at 06:02AM by G_tuit13 http://ift.tt/2d2a3So GoRVing